After attending two demonstrations of texturing, spiraling, etc. at our chapter, I thought I would get the Sorby system or equivalent. I already have the Wagner tool. I see online that there is a Sorby micro set for about $70 and a larger set for about $200. Do people in the know have ideas about the best place to purchase these tools? Is Sorby the way to go? One thing for sure is that I don't particularly want to fool around with changing out little wheels with an Allen head wrench or whatever. I have in mind having several tools with different cutters so that I can just put one down and pick up another -- or perhaps a setup with a handle that permits quick changes from one tool to another.
If this is the tool you are talking about, you cold make multiple holders for the associated cutters. I have a friend who has done exactly that.
I tend to use the finest wheel for the bottom of my pieces pretty much exclusively. It's a fun tool to play with.
Another option for end grain work is a chatter tool. This tool features a piece of spring steel that vibrates when it is pressed against end grain. The patterns aren't as repeatable as the Sorby tool, but it is good also.
Elliot -- I purchased mine from Craft Supplies USA. I'd done some price comparison and didn't notice much difference among those who sell Sorby tools. I liked CSUSA because they carried all the wheels offered by Sorby and because they've always treated me well.
If you plan on getting several tools, one for each wheel you plan on using, I'd call to see if you could work out a package price. I don't find changing the wheel to be too time consuming and I wouldn't want to have to store so many tools (that would take up a lot more room than having one tool with a complete set of wheels). So, I doubt many others buy multiple sets of the texturing tool. CSUSA, or another vendor, might be able to give you a better price if you bought several at once.
There is definitely a difference between the micro and full size sets. The micro spins on a brass axle, no bearings. If you texture on the wrong side of the wheel, it backs out the axle. The full size has ball bearings in the cutters. It would be unusual to use more than maybe two of the cutters on any one project, so to me, removing one bolt to change the cutter is not a big deal. I have seen some people just mount the cutters to a flat on a piece of bar, but the Sorby holder has a slot cut in it. I love the indexing system on the Sorby, it's far better than a homemade handle for repeatability. I have modified an old star grinding wheel dresser for texturing. Works quite well for the small investment at Harbor Freight.
I have both the original and smaller Sorby. The "micro" did not come with my favorite wheel, what I call a star pointed wheel, but I think you can buy it as an accessory. The other wheels are mostly made for spiraling which I don't do often. The star is mounted on the largest Sorby in this picture:
The ones I use the most, though, are the two at the bottom which has a star wheel with the points closer together. A machinist made these but they would be easy to make if you can find the wheels.
I like to use them on spindles:
I've made chattering tools but I don't like using them much.
I use those tools a lot but for different purposes. This stunt takes a little practice and a lot of courage. Keep the tips sharp, however, and interesting things can be done.
>>>John, where can I find the type ferrules you have on your tools ?
Jim,
I usually make them. I think some of the turning tool suppliers carry them but I don't know exactly where these days and I don't even know what to call them. I'm not sure "ferrule" is the word. I called one a "collet" once and got chastised for it. :-) Maybe "adapter?"
Some of the tool makers sell similar things but some don't let you adjust the depth of the shaft embedded in the handle. Some come built into a handle. I like these since they are cheap, simple, and I like to make my own wooden handles.
I like to drill a deep hole in the handle so I can leave less of the the tool shaft exposed than common. I find it gives me a more control but more important, as the tool gets shorter from sharpening I can keep the same length extended for consistency.
Another reason I like to make them is all I've seen for sale, such as the second one from the top in my picture, have been about the same diameter even if drilled for a 1/4" tool shaft. I like to make them smaller for smaller tools since they are more comfortable to for me to grip, especially when "choking up" on the tool for small work or when holding it with just one hand.
I got one from Frank Penta who had a machinist make up a bunch. I made all the rest myself from aluminum or steel. I use a metal lathe although I did make one from aluminum on the wood lathe using standard turning tools. It was slow but worked.
I used a short piece of 6061 aluminum rod held in a small jaws in a supernova chuck, drilled the hole size I needed through the stock, turned down the smaller part that gets glued into the handle (ribbed a bit for the glue), then reversed and held that part to turn the working end. I drilled and tapped two holes for the set screws.
Thanks John. ACE Hardware has set screws, in numerous sizes. I looked at Cindy Drozda's web site, and will go with what she demonstrated. Reason I ask is some of my tools are to short to sharpen in the Wolverine Jig.
>>>Thanks John. ACE Hardware has set screws, in numerous sizes. I looked at Cindy Drozda's web site, and will go with what she demonstrated. Reason I ask is some of my tools are to short to sharpen in the Wolverine Jig.
Sharpening a tool out of the handle is a big advantage.
Another advantage of these adapters is keeping several tools sharpened the same. I keep several identical Thompson spindle gouges. When one gets dull, I replace it with a sharp one and keep going, only stopping to sharpen when they are all dull.
Another advantage is to minimize too storage space for those rare woodturners I've heard about who might have too many tools. Ahem...
When I make smaller versions of these I sometimes have to grind the set screw shorter so it will fit. It's nice to have all the set screws use the same hex key.
If you have the space, even a small metal lathe is so useful in the shop. A couple of years ago I added a mill and lathe and now I would hate to be without either.
I love being able to remove the tool for sharpening. The handles often get in the way for the tools which have the metal glued into the handle. I will likely cut out the metal from the handles over time.
These days I try to purchase unhandled tools to use with a handle adapter.
I purchased a metal lathe a couple of years ago to allow me to make jigs and tools for the wood working / turninghobby. A few months ago I purchased a small knee mill to help with various machining operations. I love using the mill for drilling my turning projects. So easy to move the knee when I get to full depth on the quill. Also the mill is so much more rigid than the drill press table.
I do not expect to make enough items on the metal machines to feel like I have saved the money I spent on the metal machines, but I would now hate to be without these machines.
When I purchased my wood lathe I was surprised at how much I spent on tools and accessories to aid in turning.
I have to say the amount I spent on the wood lathe tools and accessories is a fraction of the money I have spent on tooling, measuring, etc. for the metal lathe and mill.
