My version of SEGEASY

Re: My version of SEGEASY

Robert Edington

I don't get it. Can you provide more pictures of it in use and describe what the changes allowed you to do?

Thanks

RP

Re: My version of SEGEASY

mikeee12345

I would assume the angle template needs to be drilled perfectly in the center to get

an accurate cut on your individual cut segments. If your holes were off by any amount

you would have issues with your cut segment pieces.

Not necessarily

Dick Coers

Someone will likely know more about it than me, but isn't the principle of these purchased wedges that you cut on both sides of the wedge so the included angle is precise? Not that the angle is perfect to a face?

Re: My version of SEGEASY

Jimmy Edwards

Robert, I'll try to get some pics of the sled as 1)originally built by Jerry Bennet: 2) modified with slots top and bottom to allow spreading the pivot point near the blade. ( which allows using wider boards that would fit in (1); and (3) just with the wedgies. The wedgie holes were located by clamping the wedgie on the sled and set by digital caliper perfectly, then drilled from the bottom. Every wedgie of different angles thereafter was clamped on the sled, set perfectly with the digital caliper and its holes were drilled from the same holes from the bottom. All wedgies were set on the centerline and all holes are the same.

In other words, use a 12 segment wedgie, 360 divided by 12 =30 divided by 2 =15 . The digital caliper is set at 15.0000, not 15.1234 or so. If you use the wedgie to set the fences at 15 degrees then you really don't need the fences because you because the wedgies are already at 15 degrees.

I bought the Flutemaster at SWAT last year and for every different piece you have to reset the stops for the flute cutting. Therefore I use this same sled as in (2) above with the fences for flute cutting and wedgies for segmenting without the fences.

oops: When I said digital caliper I meant digital angle finder

Re: Not necessarily

David Walser

Yes, Dick, that's how the system works. By cutting one end of the segment referencing off the top side of the wedge and the other end of the segment referencing off the bottom side, any error in aligning the sled to the blade is canceled out. It doesn't matter if the wedge is mounted so its axis is perfectly perpendicular to the blade. The segments will still form a perfect ring without gaps. In fact, you can produce a spiral effect by intentionally skewing the two fences so the wedge is obviously not perpendicular to the blade.