We had a workshop yesterday on sharpening. I was surprised at how many folks had some tools that had been mis-sharpened. I feel that some of them can't afford a sharpening system. Does anyone have any links to a homemade simple sharpening system, that might could be build at a workshop session? I'm thinking along the lines of the Wolverine type system, but with fewer adjustments. Key word is simple and I feel from looking at the tools they brought in, free hand is not going to get it.
Josh I built a more or less copy of the Ellsworth jig. I used to use it with a 1x2 that had a drilled recess. It fit under my grinder in a slot and would lock in any position. It worked an awful lot like the Oneway system with the Wolverine jig that I have now. I still have the Ellsworth copy and can bring it to you. The rest would be easy to redesign to fit any grinder. The jig head was made out of wood and had a 1/4" steel rod drilled into it at a 45 degree angle I think. I forget how I held the tool but I'll dig it out when I go to the shop in a few minutes.
This system also worked with tools that don't use the Ellsworth jig. I had a V shaped block that fit in the same hole and you slid the 1x2 out as far as necessary to grind things like roughing gouges and wide spindle gouges by simply rotating them in the V slot.
Don't overlook another option - a well planned and effective workshop on freehand sharpening. Without an understanding of how a tool works and what the ideal tip shape and geometry is, it is certainly possible to make a mess of a tip with a jig. Unfortunately, discussions simply say use a jig, as if one can't mis-shape a tip using a jig, rather than provide the background knowledge and understanding.
The Robo Rest is a less expensive platform sharpening option that an yield excellent results with the background knowledge and understanding.
Here are two of the jigs I made. the top one has a spring I made from the steel they wrap 2x4's with. I though Lowes wouldn't miss a little section. That was sort of my version of the spring that they have in the Wolverine. I cut a small groove in the bottom inside to center the tool. The spring pushed against the top of the flute to keep it aligned.
In the other one I put the screw in the bottom and pushed the tools against the top. It was a little tricky keeping the flutes aligned. In theory it pushed even against the rounded top but I found it didn't always work. I think what would work better is to make a moveable V that fits in the bottom and make the sides parallel and top flat. The V would then push up against the top and align everything.
The length of the arms aren't that critical. Back then I was playing with the lengths to see what changed and it's fairly subtle.
The Ellsworth gouge is my go to tool. Bought it at Arrowmont when I took a class from David. Also got the jig/block at the same time.
I bought a cheap chinese grinder at Woodcraft and built a base for it and use 1" square tube from Lowe's to make the arms for each side. One side is left set up for the Ellsworth grind. The other side has a T on the arm on it for skews and it multitasks for other things. The grinder was less than $100 and all the other stuff had to be less than $20.
As others have shown, you can make the Jig or block easily. I suggest getting in touch with David and see if he would cut you a break on a group order.
Folks, great ideas on the gouge jigs, thanks, cheap and easy.
Now how about a simple reliable platform system? I'm leaning toward a system of maybe 3 blocks of wood cut at specific angles, like 15 degrees for a skew with either a line or a stop to help maintain the skew tips angle. Another at maybe 65 degrees for scrapers. And the last at 45 degrees with a V groove cut in the top to hold a spindle roughing gouge. My challenge is how to attach them quickly to the grinders base. Woodcraft loaned my a Sorby Proedge to let members use at the workshop. One of the things I liked about it was the skew guide and the spindle roughing gouge guides.
My hope is to make this simple enough that some of the advanced members could get together to make some "jig kits" that new and $$ challenged members can assemble at a workshop.
I realize I'm in the minority here, but I do all my sharpening freehand. No jigs required, and this means that you don't have to buy a jig nor learn how to use it.
The method I use is described on my website, linked below. I don't even use (or even have) a tool rest or guide on my grinder. But I do have a nice platform on which to rest my hand.
There is a secret to freehand sharpening: you have to be able to see the bevel in order to accurately present the tool to the wheel and to be able to see when the bevel is making proper contact. How is this possible? The trick is so simple you will be amazed.
Now in fact, some practice will be required in order to become proficient at it - just like any other new endeavor you try for the first time. But if you give it an honest try, I have confidence that you will be able to do it. I've shown the method to a lot of people and have yet to have someone not be able to do it.
Josh, On the left side of my grinder I have a 1" square tube mounted directly under the grinding stone. It slides in and out in some wood tracks with a metal strap loosely over the back end and one that can be tightened on the front. There is a T on the front about a foot wide. I have made marks across the slide at what ever the settings are for various tools. You set the distance and tuck the skew into the left and right sides of the T to sharpen the two sides. You set it at another distance and set the parting tool on top of the slide bar centered on the wheel and touch the parting tool to the grinder. The original tool rest for the grinder is left at the setting for a scraper.
I have forgotten how to post pics on Wood Central. This setup is really pretty low tech and I would be happy to send you some pictures if you send me your cell phone number or e-mail.
Josh all you really need is a board with holes drilled in it at different distances and then a block with a notch cut in it. The board sits under the grinder. You simply set gouge that you want to sharpen on the grinder with the bevel rubbing. then place the block in the hole that matches the handle end and your ready to sharpen that gouge by rotating it. I use that for spindle and roughing gouges. Skews will work the same. If you use the Ellsworth jig then simply move the block to a hole up real close. If you want to get fancy you could make this board slide in and out under the grinder which is what I did. I simply screwed boards down on both sides of my jig board. I locked it in place with a screw knob that went most of the way through one board. I made a bandsaw cut in about 4", then drilled through to the slot. Tapped this and put CA glue on the threads, re tapped, and then inserted the knob. Screw it in and it pushes this bandsaw cut spring against the board to lock it in place. simple but effective.
That's exactly what I think I'm going to do. Just keeping it simple. I'm thinking of having another workshop where we tune up their grinders, attempting the Geiger wheel truing method (I'm not the best at this, that's why I bought CBN wheels), then the second part assembling and learning to use the jigs.
Doc and other thanks for the suggestions for hand sharpening, I'll give them a try, but for the folks in my "target" group, I'll have to move them toward the jig system. Their hands are just not that steady and no telling what kind of grinder they are using! I'll address that next.
I would like to see how they are ground.