I found the Deft Lacquer based sealer on line, I Order it and going to give it a try. I finished turning my first box since Dec 2013. It's sanded to 400 grit and i guess I'll use Danish Oil and my beal system to finish it. The box 5 3/4" tall and 4 1/2" diameter, was made from spalted Maple out of a cats paw I harvested two years ago. I turned it without the use of a Chuck, pretty interesting but not that hard. Thanks again for the info
Dick is absolutely correct. Do not put an oil finish on spalted wood. At the very least try it on a scrap first. I can almost guarantee you won't like it.
And all the others who spoke of using thinned lacquer are right as well. I see no real advantage to a sanding sealer. Also, take the admonition about leaving the lid on to heart. If you do snug "pop" fit lids, it's pretty easy to seal up a box forever. A real bummer after getting it "just right".
Ok so I ordered sanding sealer yesterday and when I checked today the delivery date is 4 to 8 weeks out. I guess Amazon really doesn't want to sell it. So now my Question is, Jamie says thin the lacquer 10% with acetone and John is a 50/50 with lacquer thinner. My objective if I remember right was the sealer dried in about 5 min then a light sand and wax. So when the box came off the lathe it was finished except for the bottom. Which way will give that result, or any other ideas?
I mix it 50/50 because it dries very fast and it penetrates well so I use it to firm up punky wood or to stiffen the fibers when I'm getting excessive tearout. This also happens to be the right viscosity for my cheap spray gun.
....percentage because it seals and builds faster when wiping the mix on with a paper towel. Fewer volatile fumes in the shop air as well, and I don't believe there is much difference in drying time when less lacquer is applied by rubbing rather than spraying.
