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Turning Acrylic

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Turning Acrylic

#1

Turning Acrylic

Doug Reynolds

Trying my hand at acrylic pen blank turning with about a 50% failure rate.� Using a small roughing gouge, negative rake scraper, skew on its side as a scraper and, an Easy Wood Tools pen turning tool all with similar results. The blank will just blow up for no obvious reason like a catch.

Working very slowly as in, "This is taking forever.� Good thing I'm not trying to make a living doing this".

Any suggestions?

Also, when I break a blank I can extract the brass tube by breaking it free. Is it okay to use it in another blank?

Re: Turning Acrylic

#2

George Taylor

Re: Turning Acrylic

George Taylor

i just finished turning half a dozen acrylic bottle stoppers ... I use a freshly sharpened bowl gouge (not a big one) to bring the blank to round and possibly a little shaping. Then I go to my Hunter osprey to do the rest. You still have to take light cuts but that is the nature of acrylic. Then when I have my final shape and I am sure there are no minute fractures, I wet sand and then buff.

Re: Turning Acrylic

#3

Use a skew like a skew, not a scraper

Dick Coers

You still have to go slow, but a skew works great when shear cutting. Acrylic is too generic of a term for pen blanks. There is polyester resin, that can be brittle when over catalyzed. Or Acrylester which I dont know what it's mix is, but it's extremely brittle. The skew as a skew cut is absolutely necessary for it. Urethane (Alumilite), but it cuts great with most all tools. You can get PVC rod, or other mixes from Italy. If you can tell us which material, that helps us help you.

Re: Turning Acrylic

#4

Re: Turning Acrylic

John K Jordan

Doug,

I've been turning acrylic lately, but not pens. This is colored cast acrylic about 1.5" in diameter. I've made things like ornaments, finger tops, knobs, etc.

I use parting tool, skews, spindle gouge, and best, a Hunter Osprey or small Hercules tool. The Hunter tools leave a nearly polished surface.

I suspect a too aggressive cut. Perhaps smaller cuts with sharper tools? I personally would stay away from the Easy Wood tools. The Hunter carbide tools are extremely sharp and work like an extremely sharp gouge. I have also used them like scrapers on cast acrylic but the finish was a lot worse.

JKJ

Re: Turning Acrylic

#5

Re: Turning Acrylic *LINK*

David Walser

Doug -- If you're using a Windows computer (or have the proper software on a Mac), you can watch several videos on Ed Davidson's website in which he demonstrates turning plastic blanks -- bottle stoppers and pens. Look for the videos mentioning "EPR" (Ed's Polyester Resin, IIRC). Ed used to produce EPR blanks for Arizona Silhouettes and he made many of these tutorials in connection with his EPR blank business. The tutorials are listed with the most recent first; you might want to start with some of the earlier videos.


Ed's tutorial page

Re: Turning Acrylic

#6

Re: Turning Acrylic

John C Lucas

Most of the problems turning plastic are due to pushing the tool too fast ,dull tools or both. Scrapers don't do well unless you have a fresh burr. Sharp bevel rubbing tools and a light cut are necessary. If you don't have curls coming off the tool and can hear a sort of scratching or chipping noise you are forcing the cut by pushing too hard. You should hear almost no noise or a slight whooshing sound and there should be a clean finish left bbehind the tool. Thise will be very light cuts so it will take multiple passes to get it down to size.

Re: Turning Acrylic

#7

Re: Turning Acrylic

Steve Kniffen

Doug,

Everything that's been said is correct - sharp tools, light cuts, take it slow. While these are good advice with any acrylic, each different variety has its own peculiar challenges. Experience will give you a good feel for the touch that's needed with each different one.

I turn a lot of pens and even though I prefer wood, at least half the ones I sell/give away are acrylic. I start with a 3/4" SRG and sometimes use it to almost final form. I may use an Easy Finisher tool for final shaping or a 3/8" spindle gouge with a fingernail grind on it as a sheer scraper. I use a skew on laser cut pen blanks. You don't want to start a cut by entering from an end. Exit off an end and as soon as the blank is round try to round off the end so there's not a blunt edge to catch against.

It wasn't clear from your posting whether you had to cut off all the remaining acrylic after you had a blow out or if you were able to just pull the tube out of the remaining acrylic. If you're using CA glue to attach the tube, you're setting yourself up for failure. CA is not your best choice for mating tubes to blanks. Find a good 2 part epoxy and give it time to set. I generally glue one day and turn the next.

Steve

Re: Turning Acrylic

#8

Re: Turning Acrylic

Doug Reynolds

The Woodturners Catalog and Rockler states only that the blanks are acrylic. No more specific than that.

I am taking super light cuts and had one catch which was my fault. But, boy does this take a long time with such light cuts.

Re: Turning Acrylic

#9

Re: Turning Acrylic

Doug Reynolds

Steve: I am using System Three Barrel Bond for gluing the brass tube to the blank and, letting it cure at least 24-hours before doing anything including trimming the ends. I am using a Whiteside carbide trimmer in a drill press and even that is dicey.

The Easy Wood tool is brand new and, one of the failures was the first turning with it.

I've only turned a few acrylic pen blanks and, with so many failures, was seeking advice before I developed bad habits. The worse one is a stars on a blue field blank I got from Woodturners Catalog to make a Stars and Stripes patriotic pen. I called and they stated the blanks were brittle.

Made two pens with masur birch which is quite lovely.

Re: Turning Acrylic

#10

Re: Turning Acrylic

john lucas

A sharp spindle roughing gouge should reduce them quickly. I use a bevel rubbing cut and have my gouge ground to about 45 degree included bevel. What rpm are you running? I run about 2000 or so but will slow down if it seems like I'm melting the plastic. Some plastics will actually melt with the bevel rubbing them at higher rpm's. Most of the time the bevel is not pushing against the blank as I cut an it's not a problem.

Re: Turning Acrylic

#11

Re: Turning Acrylic

Doug Reynolds

I'm running fairly fast as well. I will try the roughing gouge to at least get the blank round.

Re: Turning Acrylic

#12

Re: Turning Acrylic

Ed Davidson

Doug,

In our woodturning hobby, you'll run across 4 distinctly different types of "acrylic". Most retailers will not tell you what compound they are selling (probably don't know), and will use the term generically across all types of materials:

1) Cast acrylic...usually professionally made, in large sheets or blocks and then cut to size for retail sales. There are a few ways to identify cast acrylic: small pieces like pen blanks will almost always have saw marks on the sides and small chips on the edges resulting from band saw cuts. And, if you cut a piece on your band saw, it will not melt. It also has a very strong smell (plastic) when being cut or turned. Most of what you'll find at large retailers like Woodcraft and Crafts Supply is cast acrylic. Very hard and dense. Many people have success turning it with carbide cutters. Tends to chip (looks like shattered glass) if turned aggressively, or with the wrong/dull tool.

- Extruded acrylic...aka, Plexiglass. This stuff is not intended for turning, but sometimes ends up in retailer's inventory. It will melt if cut with a band saw or just about any other type of power saw. Don't waste your time trying to turn it.

- Polyester resin...known as a home-brewer's compound, mostly cast by amateurs in small batches. This is the stuff I used for years to cast "EPR" (Ed's Poly Resin). Relatively soft and easier to turn than acrylic and with less smell (IMHO). Use scrapers and skews. Tends to chip (looks like shattered glass) if turned aggressively, or with the wrong/dull tool. Poly resin is not as popular as it once was, but you can still buy the raw materials to cast-your-own at Michaels and Hobby Lobby. One of the more common brand names for the two part mix is Aristocrat. I'm pretty sure that the soft version of "Tru-Stone" uses polyester resin mixed with power-fine crushed stone, as it has exaclty the same smell when it's turned.

- Alumilite...also a small batch, mostly hobbyist and amateur two part mix, that tends to develop bubbles as it's mixed and requires the use of a pressure pot to extract the bubbles as it hardens. Turns about the same as poly resin. Some people like it better than poly resin, some don't (controversial subject). Just about all of the more exotic pen blanks you'll find at Penn State and a few other retailers are made from Alumilite...snake skin in clear resin, coffee beans in resin, stars and stripes colored blanks, Canadian flag blanks, zebra skin and other "animal print" blanks. Alumilite is also used to stabilize punky soft wood like Box Elder burl and to add brightly colored plastic square corners to hybrid (rotten wood/resin) blanks.

Hope this helps.

Re: Turning Acrylic

#13

Re: Turning Acrylic

Ed Davidson

"Stars and Stripes patriotic pen" blank: that one is made from Alumilite or a very similar casting material...it is not acrylic.

Best tool for turning Alumilite is a scraper with no burr, or a skew...straight on like a scraper, not as a shear cutter. Carbide cutters will also work, but be sure to keep the tool firmly on the tool-rest, and keep the tool-rest close to the work...must avoid vibration and chatter at all cost.

Re: Turning Acrylic

#14

Re: Turning Acrylic

William Duffield

The proper software for Mac OS X is VLC.

http://www.videolan.org/vlc/download-macosx.html

Re: Turning Acrylic

#15

Re: Turning Acrylic *LINK*

Dick Coers

Alumilite sells a resin to stabilized wood, but it is a different product than what is used to cast pens. The casting resin is preferred for casting where foreign material is added to the resin. Polyester resin shrinks as it cures and pulls away from pine cones or other objects in the mix, alumilite casting resin does not shrink nearly as much and promotes better success with this style of pen blank. Any moisture in the items being cast into the resin is a disaster.

A skew in shear works perfectly well for me for turning pen blanks cast from Alumilite. I use a wire brush to break of the threads that come off as recommended by Ed Brown at Exotic Blanks.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiZzN27hJQU

Re: Turning Acrylic

#16

getting rid of the strands

John K Jordan

>>>I use a wire brush to break of the threads that come off

>>>as recommended by Ed Brown at Exotic Blanks.

I've never tried to turn alumilite but have turned a lot of cast acrylic. The threads on the acrylic would immediately wrap around and hide the cut so I couldn't see the profile or exactly where the tool was.

They were difficult to remove since they seem more like long, strong fibers wrapped around into a nest. The threads seemed to get longer and stronger the cleaner the cut, say, from a Hunter carbide tool in the bevel-rubbing mode. I couldn't get a brush to clear the strands since they didn't break easily.

What worked the best for me was to position the dust collector intake just behind the work. If the initial part of the strand gets sucked into the intake then the entire continuous thread gets picked up - perhaps a 30 ft or moreI'm guessing. This makes it so much enjoyable to turn since the nest is not immediately hiding the cut and I don't have to interrupt the cut repeatedly to clean it out with an awl, knife, or scissors.

It might matter that this dust collector is a 5hp cyclone strong enough to suck a measuring tape out of your hand!

JKJ

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