Best bowl finish that will not darken wood

Re: Best bowl finish that will not darken wood

ebd

You could wax and then use a heat gun to melt the wax out of the holes before buffing.

Re: Best bowl finish that will not darken wood

John Veerkamp

I just use an old tooth brush and pounce the wax out of the holes.

hot wax

John K Jordan

I like to use beeswax on Eastern Red Cedar. I apply it on the lathe while spinning if possible, otherwise rub it on the surface. Then I heat with a heat gun on low temperature. Melted wax soaks into the wood and flows down into cracks. I wipe off any excess with a rough cloth or paper towel.

I like the soft luster of the beeswax BUT it does darken cedar somewhat. I don't find it objectionable. Beeswax doesn't darken ERC until it is heated by heat gun or by friction. I don't have a before/after picture but here is an "after" (the one at the top and top left). Note that ERC is different from different trees and some darkens more with hot wax than others.

I have also used successive light coats of Deft rattlecan spray lacquer to nice effect. I think I put a coat of shellac sanding sealer on this one (again, ERC) then 6 coats of lacquer, rubbed out with steel 0000 steel wool between coats. The lacquer didn't darken or yellow the finish that I could tell. (This particular piece of wood was naturally darker than the piece in the picture above.)

I have no idea how melted beeswax would affect other species of wood. I suggest turning a small object of the same wood and do some tests. Note that you can easily remove any excess wax out of insect holes with a sharp pointed tool.

JKJ

Re: Best bowl finish that will not darken wood *LINK*

David Walser

I recommend Deft Interior Clear Wood Finish Gloss Brushing Lacquer. Deft claims it doesn't yellow with age, and they may be right. I think there is some slight yellowing over time, but that may be the natural darkening that occurs over time with most woods. I like the brushing lacquer because it is so easy to apply on the lathe. Just brush it on and wipe off the excess with a paper towel. Here in Arizona, I can usually apply a second coat in 15 minutes. Three coats is usually enough.

I use the gloss rather than semi-gloss because its more flexible. It's very easy to cut back the shine of gloss lacquer with steel wool, but you cannot make semi-gloss lacquer into gloss lacquer.

Here's a link to what I use on Amazon (not because I recommend buying it from Amazon, but to show exactly which product I'm recommending):


Deft Brushing Lacquer

several choices

GaryG in MD

I, too, don't like to put on a finish that yellows wood or darkens it with time.

But you should be aware that cherry is a wood that naturally darkens with time, regardless of the finish.

In general, you have to understand that oils penetrate and other finishes sit on the top of the wood. All products will darken the wood to a certain extent -- just as it will darken if you put a drop of water on it. Some oils darken wood a lot more than others. I've had good luck with 100% pure tung oil -- NOT so-called "tung oil finishes" which are usually everything BUT tung oil.

Clear surface finishes that don't yellow with age are things like lacquer and water-based poly. You have to do your research on the latter, however, because some of them lend a really nasty bluish color. I avoid them for that reason.

The other possibility is the matte spray acrylic used for things like sealing drawings. I've used it on wood to good effect. After a couple coats, you can rub it out with something like Abralon to 4k and get a nice sheen.

Given your bug holes, I would not use steel wool. But I'm biassed anyway -- I hate it and never use it for anything. I prefer Abralon or so-called "non-woven" pads.

Lacquer is my go to finish for many.......

JamieDonaldson

...projects when I don't want to change the color of the wood, but I rub it on rather than painting on a thick coat. Building several thick coats appears as a plastic coating, and I prefer wood surfaces that look and feel like wood. Wiping on with a paper towel is easy, and if some gets into holes just blow them out with a compressor before it completely hardens.

Krylon Fixatif

John C Lucas

I wouldnt call it the best bowl finish but of all the finishes ive tried this one chanves the color the least. On many wood it looks like you never applied a finish. Cedar still changes color. Havent found a finish that wont darken cedar. It can buffed up to a gloss or left kind of matt finish right out of the can.

Re: Best bowl finish that will not darken wood

Jim Barbour

Has anyone else tried Velvit Oil? I have found the clear to be an excellent finish, but I have only been using it for a few years so I don't know how it holds up with respect to yellowing. If you follow their instructions (wet sand) you will fill all the pores, but if you wipe-on, wipe-off it seems to work. It is used quite a bit for gun stocks.

see http://velvitproducts.com/

In the interest of full disclosure, I do sell Velvit Oil.

I have also used emtech conversion varnish and acrylic lacquer from Target Coatings successfully. The former for items that will receive rough treatment and the latter for a glass-like finish.

see https://www.targetcoatings.com/products/