Teaching Turning and the use of chucks

When I learned, there were no chucks

Dick Coers

I had to use a faceplate. In those days, I was always trying to scrimp by and I can't recall how many times I hit the screws. It was only when I saw a John Jordan video, Beta version maybe?, did I learn to use a larger faceplate so the screws would be outside the foot. It was tough to learn that when every manufacturer gave you a 3" faceplate. Now? About the only faceplate I use is on the outboard side of the lathe as a hand wheel.

Re: When I learned, there were no chucks

john lucas

Well like Dick I learned to use a faceplate. Chucks weren't available and when they were they were too expensive. I finally got one and haven't looked back. Again it's what you turn that makes the difference. I seldom turn hollow vessels and most bowls I turn are relatively small. I start all of my bowls between centers and it's pretty easy to just chuck it up. Sometimes I get a little miss alignment and have to true up the bowl a little but I remember that happening with faceplates as well. I used to turn a rebate in the bottom of the bowl that exactly fit the faceplate and that helped some but sometimes I would still have to true them up. For me chucks just make more sense for most of what i turn.

I learned on face plates.

Brad Vietje

...but turning really took off when my dad got a OneWay Stronghold (now my everyday chuck).

I tell all beginners that there is almost nothing a chuck can do that a faceplate can't, but I find a chuck a little quicker & a little easier.

You raise a good point that the $200 - $500 one shells out for a chuck, adapter, and a few sets of jaws could be spent on other things that might help a newbie develop their skills. I usually tell people to start with a faceplate, and not buy a chuck -- or any special tooling -- until they figure out what they really want to turn.

I think if we build up various chucks, waste blocks, jigs, and adapters for our faceplates, it would be just about as quick to turn without a chuck. What I really like about using a chuck is that I can insert a spur drive, rough out a piece between centers (tilt/tip to get the best orientation), shape a spigot and mount it on the chuck about as quickly and easily as it can be done. That's probably why I use chucks most of the time.

I now use faceplates for lamp shades, larger hollow forms (greater that ~8"), and the rare large disk (big platter or table top), and not much else.

Safe spinning,

Brad Vietje

Newbury, VT

Teaching work holding

John K Jordan

>>>I tell all beginners that there is almost nothing a chuck can do that a

>>>faceplate can't, but I find a chuck a little quicker & a little easier.

Scroll chucks are a real plus for smaller things like boxes and a variety of spindle turnings that cannot be held between centers. For example I've been turning things from colored acrylic rods, 1-1/2" in diameter. What a royal pain it would be holding a 6" piece of this securely without a chuck, something so trivial and quick with 35mm spigot jaws. Again, the best choice of holding methods often depends on what is being held and turned. To avoid misunderstandings all testimonials would ideally be accompanied by some description of the turning. Just ask Lissi OLand what she turns and what she uses. :-)

---

David, I think one reason some holding methods are not well covered or even mentioned in turning classes (and videos!) is the lack of time. (Another reason is some instructors are either set in their ways, inexperienced, or perhaps ignorant of the spectrum of possibilities.)

When beginning, I learned almost everything from books instead of classes. There are no time limits in books! Many good books cover both scroll chucks and faceplates as well as jam chucks, collets, screw "chucks", and other hoding methods. I bought and read and re-read all the books I could find and experimented with many things. I believe this has helped me choose the best (safest and most efficient) method for ME to hold a given turning.

Instead of buying an entire library like I did, one might start with just one book, Doc Green's book on holding things on the lathe. Of course, I do recommend acquiring a library, but the realist in me knows that some people don't learn well from reading (and some simply don't like to read).

BTW, a method not often discussed is using a faceplate without screws. A friend of mine turns large bowls safely holding the blank with double-sided tape. The only problem he ever had was getting the finished bowl OFF the tape!

JKJ

Re: Teaching Turning and the use of chucks

robo hippy

I have used a face plate once in the last 10 or so years, and that was for a 22 inch heavy wet madrone bowl. Turned a recess on it, cored it and used the chuck for the rest of it. For me, in production work, a face plate takes too much time with screws. I drill a recess to expand into, turn the bottom, turn another recess, reverse, and done. No screws, no taking the face plate off, and putting the chuck back on. Just depends on how you do it. Don't use the tailstock for bowls under about 10 to 12 inches as the chuck provides plenty of hold and drive force for turning bowls. Just depends on how you like to do it...

robo hippy

Re: Teaching work holding

Stuart Johnson

Wally Dickerman explain a good way to remove a piece from the tape. Unscrew the faceplate, insert a short piece of dowel that is larger than the morse taper but smaller than the threads then screw the faceplate back on. It will pop the piece off the tape.

Re: Teaching work holding

John K Jordan

>>>Wally Dickerman explain a good way to remove a piece from the tape. ..

Good idea.

Paul did devise a way that worked for him involving a hypodermic syringe and solvant. The method I use is "wedge and time". The tape is good for holding things on the milling machine, too.