Right angle drill *LINK*

Re: Right angle drill

Dick Coers

You sure you need a right angle drill for stool seats? You sure don't need to get in a deep recess. I do about as much sanding with random orbit sanders these days, mostly off the lathe. Even up to a 5" diameter Bosch sander. I will use a drill if there is an issue, with a course grit, but after that the random orbits do a much better job. No scratch marks is the big benefit!

Re: Right angle drill

Stuart Johnson

Changing bits or mandrels with paddle switch like the Neiko on Amazon is a bit tricky. All you have to do is hit the switch once when holding the key will convince you to unplug it first.

Re: Right angle drill

Barry Irby

I agree with Dick. I have only made two or three sculpted seats, but I use a 5" ROS for essentially all the sanding.

I sculpted the seats with my radial arm saw. Quite a setup but it worked well. Actually the setup was easy but the figuring out part was a little tough.

Probably should have bought a scaup and travisher and learned to use them.

Re: Right angle drill

David Walser

JL -- Are you planning on dishing out the stool seat, like a very shallow bowl? If so, I'd think the cheap HF unit would do the job without any trouble. When I first started turning, I bought a HF right-angle drill for power sanding on the lathe. It worked well. It gave up the ghost about 10 years later after a lot of use. So, I think a HF drill would handle the stools seats you're contemplating making.

I've not replaced my HF drill so I cannot comment on the current quality. I've all-but given up power sanding. I'm getting much better cuts from my gouges and skews (must be better quality wood) so my need to power sand has gone way down. Besides, I've found wet sanding (with walnut oil as the lubricant) is almost as fast and gives better results.

If you're not going to be sanding on the lathe, then I'd recommend a random orbit sander. It'll do a better job than a drill. In addition to the large 5" random orbits, you could go with a smaller detail sander. However, by using just the edge of the 5" sanding disk, the 5" sanders can be used in fairly small areas.

HTH

Re: Right angle drill

JL

I use my bowl gouge to lightly dish out the center. That's not a problem.

I was thinking about power sanding on the lathe.

I have an angle grinder w/ a chainsaw disk and a tungsten carbide grinding disk (as well as sand paper from 24-40 grit) - that's what I use to sculpt out chair seats (for the purists, I also have an adze, a scorp and a travisher that I use when I demonstrate old time woodworking).

I prefer power sanding on the lathe. It is relatively fast and all the dust goes into my DC system. Not so much w/ wet sanding - which makes a mess of my lathe bed (and me).

Re: Right angle drill

Barry Irby

I misunderstood. I was thinking of seats with a butt print in them. for a turned seat I would do it on the lathe and power sand them as you suggest. A ROS would still work well.

Re: Right angle drill

David Walser

With that clarification, of the three drills you listed, I'd go with the HF. It should last a long time power sanding on the lathe. You might find the Neiko slightly more comfortable to use (because it's not quite a full right angle), but the reviews on Amazon suggest it won't hold up for very long. The Genesis from Home Depot costs a lot more than the HF and I doubt the quality is much better. The advantage of the HF is that it has a keyless chuck.

Re: Right angle drill

George Balock

My experience has been that the right angle drills are mostly disposable. The last one I had lasted a few years. When it bit the dust, I was in a hurry, so I bought a Dewalt VS regular corded drill. That was about five years ago and it is still going strong.

I saw a video of someone using what looked like an angle grinder as a power sander. That seems like a great idea. Lots of torque.

George

Example (not the cat).

JL

She decided that it was perfect size for a throne.

Lots of torque but too high of speed

Dick Coers

I sand to Vince's instructions. Slow lathe and slow drill speeds. You can feel the sandpaper get the "traction" and the wood really comes off. You would really need the right sand paper to handle all the heat the grinder would make. Also the heat may not be good if there is a little moisture in the wood yet. Fine cracking from the sanding heat!

Re: Example (not the cat).

Dick Coers

I still can't grasp why you want to sand that simple form on the lathe, except for the dust control. A random orbit sander will take about half the time to give a scratchless job. Especially on all that end grain. But your choice of course!

Re: Right angle drill

John K Jordan

Hello Sir JL. I have abandoned my right angle drill in favor of two pneumatic random orbital sanders. One is a Grex with 2" and 1" pads. The other is a 3" palm sander I got from Ken Rizza (Woodturners Wonders). I love the way these work, but you do need a significant air compressor.

If buying a drill, I am biased against Harbor Freight and other cheap tools with motors, based mostly on the experiences of friends. Buy quality, buy once!

JKJ

Re: Right angle drill

David Walser

JKJ -- Usually I share your bias. Drills used for power sanding are an exception. A high quality drill, such as the Milwaukee 3/8" close quarter drill doesn't last much longer than a cheap HF when used for power sanding. The dust just eats up these drills. At least that was the consensus a few years ago. I've mostly given up power sanding and cannot speak to how well the current crop of drills deal with the dust.

Re: Right angle drill

John K Jordan

>>>JKJ -- Usually I share your bias. Drills used for power sanding are an

>>>exception. A high quality drill, such as the Milwaukee 3/8" close quarter drill

>>>doesn't last much longer than a cheap HF when used for power sanding. The

>>>dust just eats up these drills. At least that was the consensus a few years

>>>ago. I've mostly given up power sanding and cannot speak to how well the

>>>current crop of drills deal with the dust.

I didn't mention that I very seldom power sand! I've switched to curved hand scrapers for most face work and some spindle things. No clouds of dust, more control, better surfaces, way quieter.

But when I do power sand, it is now with the ROS air tools.

I have had a Milwaukee drill I used for power sanding (and general drilling) for maybe 10 years, still fine. I blow the dust out of it since I heard fine dust is hard on them.

JKJ

Re: Right angle drill

john lucas

I power sand with an old Dewalt $60 straight drill. I've been using that thing for 10 years or more. I bought another one at the pawn shop as a back up when this one dies but it just keeps on going. I keep hearing how the angled drills die so I've never bought one.

Re: Right angle drill

George Balock

Ditto that John.

Re: Right angle drill

Robert Lalonde

I'm with you John. I've had my Sioux angle grinder for at least ten years. I blow it clean every time I use it and no problems so far.

I too shy away from cheap tools with motors. I bought a HF 3/8 corded drill about 5 years ago to use for wiring my shop. I was using an auger drill and not paying enough attention so what happened next was my fault. I got the drill stuck and when I reversed it to back it out, the screw holding the chuck in place snapped. The bad part is, I have not been able to replace this screw. It is a weird size that nobody in my area carries. Can't find it on line either. Good thing I didn't pay much for it as it is useless now. I'm guessing that HF would have made good on it, but it was past the warranty period before I used it.

Bob.