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Dog bowl vs good bowl

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Dog bowl vs good bowl

#1

Dog bowl vs good bowl

john lucas

I'm working on an article about how to get away from the dog bowl shape that we all did as our first bowls. So I turned 2 bowls out of an identical bowl blank to show the difference. I cut them in half to help show the changes from dog bowl to well balanced bowl. What we call a dog dish bowl is usually one that has a somewhat straight sided out side. When trying to turn the inside the new turner has trouble following the outside shape and usually ends up with the top being thinner than the bottom and has the transition area near the bottom where you get tear out due to not being able to rub the bevel in that area.

I'll be discussing using a chain to help visualize a good curve.




Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

#2

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

RonBauer

John, I know exactly what you are talking about. My first many pieces had the dog dish form because I wanted to get maximum volume from the wood. I wasn't concerned about form. It took me a couple years to realize that form was more important than maximizing the volume. I still have a way to go but I now realize that everything needs to be pleasing to the eye. I like the use of the chain to show the natural catenary form.

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

#3

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

Stuart Johnson

I still have my first bowl as a reminder. The inside is a fine dog bowl shape with an outside that looks like a spittoon.

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

#4

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

John K Jordan

I like your cutaways. I believe it was Raffan's book where he said periodically cut a bowl/goblet/vase in half to check the form. Lets us know immediately where we can improve.

I do this occasionally but it is sometimes painful! I cut this one in half only after it broke in my suitcase. Great for illustration.


What I hate to see even more than the flat-sided bowl is one curved but with flats, bulges, or other unintended changes in the curvature, outside or in. I can often "see" the problem easier with my fingers than my eye. It also helps to take the chuck off the lathe and turn the piece in the hand with good lighting. I agree the catenary curve is a good starting point to learn the simple smooth curve.

One comment on the "dog bowl" shape. It is, in fact great for dog bowls! And cat bowls. A thicker base is sometimes appropriate for stability, such as a beads of courage box or a container to hold pencils. Dry wood, of course, will minimize the cracked thick base syndrome.

JKJ

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

#5

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

john lucas

Well of course in the article i will say that there's nothing wrong with a dog bowl shape. In fact it's excellent for it's purpose and even for people bowls. If that is what you intend to turn then I say do it. Certainly won't argue. I'm simply going to try and explain why other shapes are more pleasing and to learn the skills it takes to turn different shapes or at least to control the shape.

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

#6

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

John K Jordan

I agree completely! Is this an article for a magazine? I'd love to read it.

JKJ

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

#7

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

Roy Girolami

And I remember the first bowls with a top edge after sanding that was sharp enough to cut. The good old days.

Roy

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

#8

Re: Dog bowl vs good bowl

John C Lucas

You made me laugh. Been there done that .