Home Articles Forums Gallery Marketplace Videos

WoodCentral Forums

Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

Identify and use hundreds of woods

Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Slender *LINK*

Posts

Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Slender *LINK*

#1

Dennis in Southern Oregon

Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Slender *LINK*

Dennis in Southern Oregon

If one attempts to turn a spindle down to a smaller and smaller diameter, eventually one reaches the point where chatter marks begin to develop and further turning leads to increased chatter and possibly whipping of the spindle. The minimum diameter that can be achieved before this happens depends on several factors including the method used to mount the spindle. There have been posts from time to time comparing various mounting methods, but I have not seen any that give quantitative results. As an engineer (long retired), this intrigued me to the point that I decided to see if I could shed some light on the subject. I carried out a mathematical analysis of the problem based on standard engineering equations for beam deflection and followed it up with controlled experiments to try to confirm the calculations. An article, giving full details of the project can be found at the link shown below. The main results are summarized here.

I compared five mounting methods, which are listed below in order of increasing performance. The numbers in parenthesis are the locations of the critical points along the spindle.

1. One end in chuck, the other free. (100%)

2. Between centers—the most common method, and the standard of comparison here. (50%)

3. One end in chuck, the other supported by a center. (59%)

4. Both ends in chucks. (50%)

5. Both ends in chucks and the spindle under tension. (50%)

In each case, it was assumed that no other support was provided. (No steady-rest nor steadying hand wrapped around the spindle.) All results are based on a simple cylindrical spindle and will not apply exactly to arbitrary spindle profiles, although the ranking order will remain as shown. Mathematical analysis of Method 5 is impractical so only experimental results are presented and they are limited to one particular example case. For each mounting method, there is a critical point along the spindle where deflection is greatest for a given tool force. The locations of these points are noted in the list above as a percent of the distance from the drive end to the outer end of the spindle.

The premise underlying the analysis was that for a given type of wood, spindle length, type of cutting tool and possibly other factors, chatter begins when the deflection of the spindle caused by tool pressure reaches a certain amount, independent of the mounting method used. On this assumption, mounting methods that yield higher stiffness will perform better than ones that yield lower stiffness. Furthermore, with this assumption, one can use well-known engineering beam deflection equations to calculate the relative minimum diameters that can be achieved for a given spindle length by the various mounting methods and, conversely, the relative lengths of the spindles that can be turned to a common diameter. The experiments were carried out to test this premise and, in fact, the test results seem agree quite well with the calculated ones as shown in the following figures. Note that these are relative results, with Method 2 being the standard of comparison.



In order not to bias the results, and to allow a meaningful comparison of calculated and experimental results, I was careful to keep conditions as similar as possible for all of the test runs. No hand support was allowed and only a regularly ground and honed skew was used. The speed was kept at the maximum speed of my lathe (about 3200 rpm). In all cases a skilled turner could improve on these results by relaxing these restrictions.

Methods, 4 and 5 require a freely rotating chuck or equivalent at the outer end of the spindle. Previous posts have mentioned the use of a regular chuck attached to a live center for this purpose, but the large moment of inertia of the unit would require great care when starting and stopping the lathe. My solution was to make a simple “chuck” from a piece of 1-inch diameter round aluminum bar stock from a local hardware store. Shown below, they were made on the lathe by drilling and tapping one end to thread onto my Oneway live center and boring out the other end to the desired tenon diameter. The bore depth should be about 1.5 times the tenon diameter or more and the tenons used should be turned to be a force fit into the chuck so no wobble is possible. These aluminum chucks weigh only 1.2 ounces and probably add little to the moment of inertia of the live center itself. The method used to apply tension for the experiments with Method 5 is described in the Article. By the way, there is a typo on the second figure above; the tension for Method 5 was 55 pounds.

A further point worth considering is that if one is turning spindles that require tenons on both ends, Methods 4 and 5 have another advantage over Methods 2 and 3, because with Methods 2 and 3 the total unsupported length of the spindle will be increased by the lengths of the tenons that are not supported by chucks. For example, if you are turning a 20-inch long spindle that requires 1-inch tenons and use Method 2, you would actually have a total length of 22-inches to deal with. By my calculations, this would lead to a 7% increase in the minimum diameter that could be achieved. Therefore, the comparisons of the performance of the various methods given in the original post understate the benefits of the higher-numbered methods in situations where tenons are required on the finished turning.




Spindle Article

Re: Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Slender *LINK*

#2

In practice...

John K Jordan

This is interesting exercise. I suspect the calculations assume the ideal case with a homogeneous material. Unfortunately, this doesn't help so much in practice since the variability of the wood structure and density can change things drastically. I've had wood from the same species behave much differently.

From a practical viewpoint my experience is the worst method for thin spindles is to turn between centers since the cylinder can flex between the two points. Holding the driven end tightly by any method stiffens a "significant" length of the spindle. As mentioned, the effectiveness depends very much on the structure of the wood. Some will flex wildly compared to others of identical dimensions.

One practical disadvantage of your methods 4 and 5, assuming the problem can be solved to keep the mass/inertia of the secondary chuck from twisting the spindle apart, is the need for extra length of stock for the second tenon. This can be a real issue at times.

Another issue with 4 and 5 is relative. I've played with turning spindles so thin (a bit of a hobby) that even the mass of the revolving steb center would cause the wood to twist and snap during acceleration. The custom chuck may not be useful in this case.

I've turned hundreds of thin spindles and tested several methods. The method that works best for me, for practical reasons, is to turn a short morse taper on one end and use the headstock MT as a jam chuck. This has several real world advantages over holding with the common scroll chuck:

1. it provides more working room at the left end

2. it has no knuckle busting projections

3. it allows a longer spindle to be turned on a given lathe

4. it allows removing and replacing the work as often as desired with perfect registration


The MT jam chuck is of course a "chuck" for the purpose of the analysis but I think a good technique for the practical woodturner.

I use a revolving steb center on the tailstock end to save wood. This typically wastes only about 1/4".

From a practical viewpoint another thing that helps with the very thin spindles is turning at a high speed. I often turn at 3000+.

Left out of the analysis is the use (and need) for dynamic steadying support while turning. Everything changes with even a little support. I don't use a mechanical steady rest but use the "left hand steady rest" for nearly all thin spindles. Thick spindles need nothing. (The definition of "thin" and "thick" is "it depends".) Very thin spindles cannot be completed successfully otherwise. The left hand moves to provide support only where needed and only in the amount needed at the moment. Pressure is based on feedback of the feel of the work. It seems to me that such variable support would be difficult (nearly impossible) to model. With such left hand support, even long, thin spindles held by a chuck at the headstock can be turned successfully even with no support on the tailstock end.

For spindles that are unsupported at the tailstock end I drill a hole and use a draw bar to hold the turned taper tightly in the headstock taper. This method has worked to turn even very long thin spindles from even very soft and flexible wood. The latest I finished up with the drawbar technique were almost 30" long and tapered from 1/2" down to 1/16", made from a piece ripped from pine shelving board from Home Depot. Try that without some support at or near the tool.

In practice, the tools also must be extremely sharp and cuts light as the spindle gets thinner. I mostly use a skew chisel. However, some woods such as osage orange may splinter badly with the skew and work better with a gently curved roughing gouge. Conversely, sometimes a sharp spindle gouge can be uncontrollable on a very thin spindle as the wood can easily ride up over the tip. Which conditions need which tool? It "depends".

JKJ

Re: Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Slender *LINK*

#3

Thanks for posting, good discussion

Barry Irby

I have done dozens of Icicles for ornaments using the shaft in the headstock as a jamb chuck and I agree with John's summation. I often start with a piece of scrape or a pen blank about 3/4" square by about 6" long. Nothing fancy about the morse taper, just grind the corners off on the belt sander. Drive it into the head stock with a mallet and bring up the tailstock with a cup center, mostly for alignment. Actually, I rough the blank with the tailstock in place and as the blank gets thin I back it off enough to take off any pressure. At the end, I remove it completely. If the blank is long enough, I part off the icicle and turn the stub into the drop that the globe hangs from. For all of this I run the lathe as fast as it will go. (seems to be screaming fast as I usually turn bowls about a slow as it will go.)

As a joke, I turned a stick nine feet long on a two foot lathe by passing it through the head stock, a chuck to drive it and the tail stock. Had to set up eye bolts as supports beyond the lathe on both ends to control the whip.

Re: Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Slender *LINK*

#4

Yikes!  (and link to tutorial)

John K Jordan

Nine foot, yikes! You da man.

If anyone is interested, the Cumberland Woodturners club included on the web site a writeup I did on turning thin spindles. It's under "John K Jordan Thin Spindle" on this page, currently at the bottom of the first column:

http://www.cumberlandwoodturners.com/tips--links-and-projects.html

I use the "magic" wands as an example but I use the same method for almost all of my thinner spindles.

There are some other great articles on that page as well.

JKJ

Re: Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Slender *LINK*

#5

Re: Thanks for posting, good discussion

john lucas

Barry I turned 36" dowels that way. I ran them through the headstock and clamped them with my small chuck. I would turn about 3" and then extend them. i pulled the center point out of my Nova live center and ran the dowels through that to keep the long end from whipping. Worked great.

Re: Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Slender *LINK*

#6

Dennis in Southern Oregon

Re: Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Sle

Dennis in Southern Oregon

For some reason the link to the full paper does not work. Here it is again.

www.aawforum.org/community/index.php?threads/simple-aid-for-turning-spheres-without-a-jig.12187/

Re: Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Slender *LINK*

#7

Dennis in Southern Oregon

Re: Comparison of Mounting Methods for Turning Sle

Dennis in Southern Oregon

Oops, wrong link. Try this instead.

www.aawforum.org/community/index.php?threads/an-engineer%E2%80%99s-look-at-turning-slender-wood-spindles.12266/