Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998
Turning question
RICK SNYDER
Hello, I will be turning a 32 inch long spindle with beads at both ends with the middle plain. I have made two supports to keep it from flexing in the middle. Is there any way to "rig up " a long tool rest ? The project is a replica of a 1840's hanging shelf with a beaded spindle on each side. (The spindle will be split in half.)
Thanks, Rick
PS. I'm just a FAIR woodturner at this point.
Re: Turning question
john lucas
Sure just make a wooden one. I had to do a very long thin lamp once and coupled 2 lathes together. I used a 2x4 but if I were to do it again I would use a harder wood. The skew won't dent the wood but any defects or soft spots slow down movement of a spindle roughing gouge and make it hard to get a long smooth cut. Oak or Cherry would probably work. I just rigged up sort of homemade banjo for one end. It doesn't have be adjustable in height, just close to correct.
Long spindles
John K Jordan
Rick, I like John's suggestion for a wooden tool rest. I have done several long spindles, some recent ones about 30" and the longest 54 inches, and not having to move the rest a lot would have made things quicker. But I'm not sure it would be worth the time to make a rest for just one turning since moving the shorter rest a few times is not that difficult. If planning several it might be well worth it.
When I do make a long rest I will probably top the wood with a piece of steel angle iron, especially since I have a lot of steel stock at hand.
BTW, I love turning thin spindles. The 30" spindles I mentioned tapered from 1/2" down to about 1/16". I don't use (or have) a steady rest but the way I do these works fine. If you are interested I wrote a tutorial - the PDF file describes making "magic" wands from 14" stock but the techniques apply to any long thin spindle.
JKJ
I don't see the advantage
Dick Coers
Why a long tool rest? You have to work around the steadies, so will be moving equipment all the time. Once you get the center cylinder turned, sounds like you only have to work the two ends. Since you don't have to turn 50 of them, I don't see how it would be worth the effort.
Re: Turning question
Jim Barbour
Richard Findley has a simple approach to this. Here is a picture of his rest in place. Notice that he has simply clamped the tailstock end to the tailstock. He also has made a wooden banjo to support one end for when the stock is too large to allow simply clamping it off. 
No skew or steady rests?
Dick Coers
I'm impressed with the length and diameter of that spindle with no steady rest and a roughing gouge!
Re: No skew or steady rests?
Jim Barbour
It's pretty impressive to see him work. The stick is beech, oak, cherry, or hard maple depending on what the client wants, and is near on to 40 inches long, turned to 1" ar one end, 1/2" (I think) on the other. He starts with a 1 1/8" square stock and works with a roughing gouge and (if I remember correctly) a skew, steadying the piece with his left hand wrapped over the rest with his fingers providing the steady rest. Needless to say, the gouge is very sharp and the cuts are light.
No steady rest
John K Jordan
I think I posted this picture before but that's how I turn handles, this one from hickory for my shuffle hoe. I don't have a steady rest and I just moved the stock tool rest as I went. I did use a combination of a roughing gouge and a big skew chisel.
This was the longest spindle I can turn on the PM with bed extension, with the both the headstock and tailstock clamps half way off the end of the bed.
BTW, I initially clamped the driven end in a chuck for stability then used a drive center to clean up the end for maximum length.
JKJ
