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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

A55 Smoothing Plane

Bandsaw

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Bandsaw

#1

Bandsaw

Brian B

I am considering buying a bandsaw for roughing out bowl blanks but I am unsure of what to get. I want to make sure I get something with enough power without taking up to much space. I was looking at the rikon 10-353 which is a 14" 3hp. Does anyone have any experience with Rikon or other brands?

Re: Bandsaw

#2

Re: Bandsaw

Doc Green

I have had a 2 hp, 18" Rikon 10-340 for over 10 years and it has served me well. I've never observed it to bog down or labor in cutting bowl blanks up to 8" thick.

The performance of a bandsaw depends a lot on the blade you put on it (IMHO). I use only TimberWolf positive claw blades, which are expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Re: Bandsaw

#3

Re: Bandsaw

Donna Banfield

I have a 3hp 22" Rikon bandsaw. And also use only Timberwolf blades. I've been very happy with mine.

Re: Bandsaw

#4

Re: Bandsaw

Dave Paine

I have the same experience as Doc Green. I have a 2 HP motor on my Grizzly G0513 bandsaw. The motor has never felt to be underpowered.

The blades make a BIG difference on how well the machine cuts. Ideally use a blade for wet vs dry and based on depth of cut.

I also use Timberwolf blades. Many other good manufacturers of blades.

If I were in the market for a bandsaw to replace my Grizzly, I would be looking at the Laguna 14in models. Deeper max depth of cut for the throat size. Good design of blade supports. Track well based on the one I observed running in someones shop.

Re: Bandsaw

#5

Re: Bandsaw

John K Jordan

Like the amazing Doc, I've used an 18" Rikon for a long time. I use it only occasionally with for bowl blanks these days but very often cut thick green log sections into turning blanks to dry. I also cut a lot of thick, hard wood which has been drying for a decade or so.

The 2-hp motor has never even hinted at stalling even with very large and tough wood. The dust collection is good on this saw.

I used to use wider blades but found 1/2" 3-tpi (and sometimes 4-tpi) blades do everything I need, wet or dry. I have blades made locally from Lenox stock.

That said, I have a Delta 14" with a riser block that I used previously for the same thing. It doesn't have as much power but that was never a problem with a sharp blade even with 12" thick blocks. It was perfect for bowl blanks.

The Delta is much smaller than the Rikon. I have it on a mobile base so I can push it further out of the way when not in use. Runs on 110v also. A used one might be fairly cheap if that's an issue.

JKJ

Re: Bandsaw

#6

Re: Bandsaw

john lucas

I used a 14" Delta with a riser block for many years. I use inexpensive blades from local saw sharpening service and they work fine for me. I now have a 16" mini max and it is quite a bit superior to the Delta but then it cost about 4 times as much.

Re: Bandsaw

#7

Re: Bandsaw *LINK*

Tom Albrecht

Mine is a 2.5 HP Laguna 14bx I moved up to that from a Delta, and there is no comparison. It has plenty of power and great features.

Crafts Supplies sometimes has a 10% off on Laguna products.


Laguna 14bx

Re: Bandsaw

#8

Re: Bandsaw

Roger Chandler

What others have mentioned regarding blades, and proper tuning of the saw itself will either make or break the performance on bandsaws. I have both a Jet 18" bandsaw and a Grizzly G0555LX 14" saw with riser block kit, in my small shop.

I used to use Timberwolf blades almost exclusively, as they were superior in their performance to Olsen, etc, that was until I had issues with them cutting bowl blanks. They dulled very quickly with the grit found in green wood in the bark, etc. I now use the Woodturners blades from Highland Hardware........they are aggressive, have 3 tpi, and are 3/8" wide, and are .032 thickness, where most blades are .025 thickness.

These Woodturners blades have outperformed the Timberwolf blades, hands down for me! I now use my smaller 14" Grizzly saw most of the time, and find I do not need the 18" Jet for most bowl blank and spindle blank prep.

I find the Woodturners blades to be reasonably priced, stay sharp a lot longer, track better on the wheels and guides, have a wider set in the teeth to give a wider kerf for clearing chips, and have the backbone to make those curved cuts with ease, if the bandsaw is properly tuned, and they have been a joy to use. I have cut blanks up to 11.25" thick with that 14" saw which has only 1 hp motor, but it powers through them......my 18" saw will do it a bit faster, but I generally keep another blade on it for resawing, and having to change out blades is inconvenient. They can be ordered any length needed.

My dream bandsaw would be the Grizzly G0701 19" Ultimate Bandsaw. It has 19.5" of cutting height, as well as 19" from blade to to frame so a huge blank could be cut. At $3450.00 it is pricey, but that is another subject!

Re: Bandsaw

#9

Re: Bandsaw

Larry Copas

The most important feature on a band saw is the table size. It should be roughly matched to the bowl size you plan on turning. Its no fun trying to balance a 60 pound (or heavier) blank on a 14” band saw table.

Full disclosure...I have a 20” Delta with a 1 hp motor which has never slowed cutting blanks. I use 3 TPI bands no wider than 1/2”.

I was watching a bowl turning video the other day where it was advocated to just put the chunk on the lathe and forget about cutting it down to size on a band saw. He has a point I believe.

Re: Bandsaw

#10

Depends on the bowl size!

Dick Coers

I wouldn't put an 19" square on the lathe without knocking off the corners! On stock that size, I lay out an oversized circle on the blank, and nibble away the corners with the chainsaw.

Re: Bandsaw

#11

Re: Depends on the bowl size!

Roger Chandler

I agree wholeheartedly with you, Dick. We both realize that getting a blank trued a bit cuts down on bad harmonics, and can help a roughing session by making the process a lot smoother. Less vibration means a more stable process, better cuts in the wood, and a better finish off the tool.

Proper blank preparation goes a long way towards a good end result. Not to mention the lathe not walking across the shop floor!

Re: Bandsaw

#12

Re: Bandsaw

John Scheideman

I have a Minimax 16" with Timberwolf blades. Love it for cutting turning blanks and everything else. Well worth the price and they give great service.

Re: Bandsaw

#13

Re: Bandsaw

robo hippy

Well, it depends on how big you want to cut. My big saw is a Laguna 16HD with a 4.5 hp Baldor on it. Cuts 16 high, and goes through anything with no problem. Tune up is crucial with the saw, and Carter bandsaw guide people have an excellent video out on You Tube about tune up. I use a Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blade, 1 1/4 with teeth at 3/4 inch apart. Can't cut circles, but can't be beat for cutting slabs. I don't use it as much any more though since I made my chainsaw chopsaw (type that into You Tube) which allows almost dead flat surfaces that you are not afraid to put on a smaller bandsaw to cut circles.

On blades, I prefer the Lennox. I have given them to a couple of friends who were Timberwolf fans, and they all switched. They cut longer and straighter. For going 6 inches high, I can see a 3/8 inch blade, but prefer the half inch blade. They are probably suitable for 12 inches or more, but over that, a bigger stiffer blade will cut straighter and with less strain on your motor as long as you keep them sharp. I take mine to a saw shop. The 1/2 inch blades have many resharpenings in them.

Most bandsaw tables are way too small for cutting log blanks, so a surrounding table would really be a big help, infeed, outfeed, and outside. Mine is on wheels, so I haven't gotten around to making that one yet. Maybe when I get my dream shop.

robo hippy

robo hippy

Re: Bandsaw

#14

Michael Kratky

Re: Bandsaw

Michael Kratky

Good topic; burned up several lesser HP powered band saw motors over the years from lower priced manfactures before I broke down and bought a Laguna 18LT HD (18" cutting height) with a 4.5 HP Baldor motor and I never looked back since. I also learned not to use a jig for cutting bowl blanks to get that perfect cylinder and to make relief cuts.

1/2" 3TPI Swedish silicone steel is my go to blade for most everything. I have a 14" Jet that I use for finess work.

Re: Bandsaw

#15

Re: Bandsaw

Steve Worcester.

Funny, he started out asking about a Rikon and we ended up with the Laguna.

But that is a natural progression of ours.

I had a Jet 14", added a riser, went to a Laguna 16HD, then to a Laguna 24 with 26" of resaw.

Re: Bandsaw

#16

Re: Bandsaw

John Jordan

So where would one buy a Laguna saw for the best price/service?

John

Re: Bandsaw

#17

Re: Bandsaw

Steve Worcester

They have a 24x17 available through dealers, or the 24x24 through their industrial division, the biggest saw on single phase.

Generally if you see them at a wood working show, or the national woodworking show, you can cut a better deal.

Service has always been a sore point with them. The only issues I had was before they switched to Baldors, I had a motor burn out and they cut me a upgrade price on the Baldor 5HP (or maybe Leeson).

What never occurred to me was how tall it was, and luckily the shop has 9' ceilings.