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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

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new mirrors

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new mirrors

#1

new mirrors

john Lucas

I had fun with these. Each one was quite challenging.






Re: new mirrors

#2

And a few more

john Lucas






Re: new mirrors

#3

Re: And a few more

Dale Gillaspy

Love these, John. I tried making some for my daughter's wedding party gifts and they did not turn out great. I was either making the rim too thin or the hole for the handle too big. It cut through the edge and there was just no saving it.

Re: new mirrors

#4

Re: And a few more

john Lucas

I'll have to post some photos of how to save them. It's quite often that I make the rim to thin (meaning mirror to outside). It's not really a problem. I go ahead and drill to my normal depth of about 5/8" (I'll have to measure it) Then I glue the tenon in as is and of course it sticks out into the opening. I use epoxy. When it's dry I simply carve away what sticks out down to the surface. You still have a pretty good long grain to long grain glue joint for the full length on the bottom and partially on the top so it holds well. It is a little weaker and probably won't take the abuse of using it as a paddle. :)

When I screw up and make the mirror body itself to narrow or if I have some grain running out near the thin part of the handle I drill the end 5/16" and put a metal dowel in deep enough to make it strong and unbreakable.

Make the tenon too small. There are several options. One is to simply fill the hole with excess epoxy and then align the handle and mirror carefully and let them sit until dry. The epoxy fills the gap and you can carve away any excess that runs out. I often use thickener when I have to do this.

I'll try to get photos of my sample mistake mirrors this afternoon.

Re: new mirrors

#5

Re: new mirrors

robo hippy

John, I think you are having too much fun!!!!

robo hippy

Re: new mirrors

#6

Re: new mirrors

john Lucas

And relearning how to use my Robo Rest and what tools work best with it. A question. What method do you use to establish the distance from the wheel each time. I find that if I remove it and put it back on this distance is critical or the angles change. Maybe just very slightly but they do. Same would be true if the wheel wears. I haven't used the rest enough yet to really get my fingers around that yet. but I'll bet you can tell me, and everyone else. :)

Re: new mirrors

#7

Re: new mirrors

robo hippy

John, and others too, the gap between the grinding wheel, and the edge of the platform is supposed to be 1/8 inch. There is a line scribed across the width of the platform, and that is supposed to line up with the face of the wheel. Since I use the free standing ones, and not the Wolverine set up, along with CBN wheels, they never move, so no problem with me. You can use the 1/8 inch pin as a spacer if you can finger hold the platform at 90 degrees, which is how I do it most of the time when I show off the Wolverine compatible rest. You could also make a shim for the horizontal arm of the rest (between vertical post of robo rest, and Wolverine base), or use a 1/8 inch shim made of wood or some metal. You can eyeball the line as well...

robo hippy

Re: new mirrors

#8

Re: And a few more

John K Jordan

I really like some of these, especially the first and second one. Very unique look. What kind of wood is the second?

JKJ

Re: new mirrors

#9

cocobolo or CheChen-the tag fell off in the move


Re: new mirrors

#10

Duh- I forgot-Thanks Reed