I'm contemplating doing some off center turning, and thinking it might be helpful to have a strobe that I could sinc with the rotation, to help me see what I'm getting at the point of contact, rather than having it lost in the blur.
Is there one where I can put a magnet on the arbor, or face-plate?
Hopefully Josh bowman will see this. He did a demo for our club once. It worked fine until he cranked the rpm up. Then the magnet flew off. Of course you won't be running an offcenter piece that fast. I don't remember all the particulars about the strobe unit but he bought it off ebay.
Maybe if you take large cuts. If you slow it down only a little the piece will look like it's moving one direction or the other very slowly. As you lighten up on the cuts the piece should move back to the zero position. I haven't use one turning but have had to photograph things using strobes for stop action and that's what seems to happen.
Re: Don't overlook the fact that there is a.......
Jeff Smith
we picked up a modified strobe light at Boeing surplus years ago and experimented with it in the studio. This was a commercial powerpack modified to control both output and duration for producing motion studies on film. For short bursts it was fun to play with, but as exposure started going up to 10 minutes or so, the headache it produced was debilitating. Not just me, but our other shooter and the studio assistant as well. Put it on the shelf for a few years, then we gave it away in a studio cleanup several years ago.
I can see how it could be of use turning, but I'm thinking that the potential for serious accidents makes me think it may be a mis-application of technology.
Re: Don't overlook the fact that there is a.......
Dwight Rutherford
Lars Stole had a thread on the AAW forum in 2012 about using a strobe. There were numerous issues with headaches after use. Suggest you do a search of the forum. I believe there was a link to a U-Tube clip also.
I've got some pretty bright spot flashlights, that I think I might be able to set up to brighten the portion where I'll be cutting, so maybe that will allow me to see it a bit better.
Keith I can help with that, if you want to pursue it. I did find the strobe somewhat irritating, at least to my eyes. It's also deceptive to those who think the lathe is stopped and try to put there hands on the piece, that actually going at 1000 rpm!! Anyway, let me know and I'll scrounge up the stuff. I never found a cheap work around for the strobe and had to buy one from Radio Shack.......if you live close to Spring City, TN, I'll make you a deal. Here's a few links the previously mentioned PDF link of Lars was great help to my build.
Your strobe does not have to be pulsing the same as the RPM of the lathe. Only some interval of it it. Thus, the strobe flashing at 500 beats per minute will still "freeze" a turning object turning at 1000, 1500 & 2000 rpm.
Still, gotta be damn careful not to reach for that "still" object in front of you.
I watched a video of a table saw with a strobe. It's really tempting to touch that blade even though it's slicing throught the wood. Better be a saw stop if I do that however.
You might borrow a strobe and see if you are affected by the flicker others mentioned. It doesn't bother me.
Some people are not bothered in the least. Some get headaches. In extreme cases, flicker can cause violent convulsions. I remember from my piloting days this was called "flicker vertigo." However, the most severe symptoms are seen at much lower frequencies than what we use on a lathe, typically less than 60 hertz. The much higher frequencies are more likely to cause headaches or drowsiness but only in some people - those in the flying community say this problem is "rare". Some are so sensitive they can't even watch TV or be in a room with fluorescent lights!
Some people are sensitive even to much higher frequencies. This might be interesting for people who use CFL and LED lights at their lathes:
But again, many people are not affected in the least.
I experimented with strobe lights many years ago and found they didn't bother me in the least IF there was some ambient light present. I had an industrial variable-frequency strobe and played with it a lot.
You might borrow a strobe and do some tests to see if you are one of the unlucky ones. Even if the test strobe is not perfectly synced to the lathe it should be enough to see if you are sensitive. Try mixing the strobe light with some non-flickering incandescent light or daylight. I suspect that even a small amount of strobe light in the mix will stop the movement enough for you to see what you want.
A mix of light at the lathe may actually be better for safety reasons since you will still see the shadow of rotating corners and other sections of the off-center piece.
BTW, I find certain CFLs and LED bulbs make an annoying strobe effect on turnings. Others don't. (The persistence of phosphors varies as does the frequency in different brands.) Since I have multiple lights over my lathe I use a mix of different types of lights which smooths things out where I can't see the effect. Rogue bulbs can transmit electrical noise through the air as well. I had one bulb that made one digital caliper go crazy when I brought it within two feet of the lathe!
Looks like you understand that you need a trigger that keeps the stobe in sync with slight rpm changes. You will also need a way to time the flash to occur where the cutting action on the part is taking place.
I used to do vibration analysis and often used a strobe to 'look' at problems.
One thing that you will need to be careful of is a tendency to reach out and touch the apparent non-moving part. Sounds like a no brainer, but is is very easy to focus on the rotating apparent stopped part and put fingers in where emergency room visits result.
Rather than order and having to wait on it to come in, I tried something that was simple and worked pretty well. I've got a few bright flashlights and headlamps that i used. One that I know JKJ doesn't like mainly because of the switch.
My turning, is a cherry sphere about 10" D, which I hollowed out to about 2" thick through 1.75" hole. I then made a sub-faceplate from 3" thick Black Tupelo, which I cut a 20º wedge out of the face on one end. I mounted the first blank on that face, then using a laser set up to project a dot on the center of the arbor, mounted it, where the center of the opening was again located on the center axis of rotation.
When I started, I thought I'd probably use 4 different lobes inside, but after getting the first side out to about 3/8" thick, it consumed almost half of the original inside, so I rotated it 180º, and did the other side.
I was thinking about carving the outside in a seedpod shape, like some I did about 10 years ago. But there is a bird theme sneaking in there trying to nudge the pod aside. I wish I could keep going on it tonight, but I have been having a nerve thing shooting down between my neck and left shoulder, that feels like I've been stabbed with an icepick. that kinda takes the fun out of pushing on through.
I'd love to see a picture of the setup if you have one - I'm too dense to understand the shape you are turning. But do you mean you made a "strobe" with a bright white light shining through a cutout in the sub faceplate? If so, that's brilliant! Automatically perfectly synchronized with no electronics and no expense.
What John says is true. "Flicker vertigo" or "Flicker Syndrome" as it is known in the U.S. Air Force, has been designated as the cause for several aircraft accidents, mostly in helicopters. Sunlight passing through rotating propellers or rotor blades as just the right angle and frequency can cause a hypnotic effect on some pilots.