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celtic knot

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celtic knot

#1

celtic knot

eliot feldman

It seems that most turners say that the thickness of the inlay pieces must equal the saw cut kerf thickness. That's clearly the case if you cut partly through the stock and slide the inlays into the kerf.. Am I right in thinking that the thickness of the inlay can be whatever you want -- so long as they are all equal --if you cut all the way through the stock and glue up after each cut?

Re: celtic knot

#2

Re: celtic knot

Ed in Leaside

The pattern will start shifting with the second cut & glue ...

Re: celtic knot

#3

Re: celtic knot

Ron Bauer

Elliot, Ed is spot on. If you use a stop block on your miter saw or table saw sled and the kerf isn't exactly the same as the insert it will drift and the drift will be cumulative. The other important factor is the blank has to be precisely dimensioned on all four sides. I suppose one could eyeball each cut so the kerf fell in the same place relative to the insert but that could be a disaster as well.

Re: celtic knot

#4

Re: celtic knot

Paul Grover

Yes the veneers will not line up.I cut my pcs.on the band saw with a sled.I cut my veneer on the table saw with a sled using the runner on the right side of the blade. The runner slot on the left side of the blade has an adjustable jig to regester veneer thickness .the table saw jig uses clamps to hold stock.My knot lines up great. Paul

Re: celtic knot

#5

I used a dedicated sled -PIC

Rich Pearson in Mill Creek, WA

on my table saw with clamps and stop block to insure precise registration. The blanks were perfectly square and the saw kerf left 3/16"material remaining to preserve the precision during glue ups.

My walnut inserts were not the thickness of the blade but the kerfs were cut (two cuts per insert) using a shim.


Re: celtic knot

#6

Very nice work Rich.


Re: celtic knot

#7

My bad

Rich Pearson in Mill Creek, WA

I left a 3/32" "hinge" to help the glue ups. NOT a 3/16". Sorry.

Re: celtic knot

#8

Beautiful Rich!