Sharpening a Hook Nosed Scraper

Re: Sharpening a Hook Nosed Scraper

Don Orr

I'm not entirely sure exactly what you mean by "hook nose". Maybe a photo or diagram would help clarify.

Re: Sharpening a Hook Nosed Scraper

Jim Evans

Don, here you go.

Re: Sharpening a Hook Nosed Scraper

Don Orr

Ahhh, got it. I would sharpen it just as you would any standard scraper on a grinder. Lay the blade flat on a flat tool rest and match the bevel angle of the tool to the wheel and sweep the tool all the way around the cutting edge while in contact with the grinding wheel. I usually go a little farther and hone off the grinder burr with a diamond hone and turn a fresh fine burr with either that same diamond hone or more recently use the Veritas scraper burnisher. Hope that helps.

Re: Sharpening a Hook Nosed Scraper

Jim Evans

Don Thanks, I am having trouble getting into this area.

Re: Sharpening a Hook Nosed Scraper *LINK*

Dave Paine

I can imagine the challenge. I have not done this myself so far, but I foresee some similar shapes for metal lathe tool tips in the future.

Perhaps this video by Mark Silay will help. He grinds a dovetail scraper from a skew. About the 2 minute time stamp.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KG8dulUlkLY

Re: Sharpening a Hook Nosed Scraper

robo hippy

I think, from looking at the long straight side of the tool, that you would have to use the wheel on the left side of your grinder, and make a long sweep. The flat would end up being against the side of the wheel. Some of these type scrapers can be honed on the top to refresh the edge, but I think that eventually they need to be taken to the grinder.

robo hippy

Look up Doc Green

Geoff Whaling

Particularly his comments on raising the burr "a burr from burnishing." Less trips to the grinder. http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/scrapers1.html

Re: Sharpening a Hook Nosed Scraper

john lucas

Jim I'm curious as to why you think that part of the tool needs to be sharpened. Personally I would not use that area. It's inviting a catch. All that really needs to be sharp is the rounded nose maybe from about 10 oclock up around to the right and maybe the very end.

Re: Look up Doc Green

Doc Green

What I would suggest is (1) grind the bevel lightly, only if necessary, if the bevel seems convex (side view) or turned in near the cutting edge. (2) Use a diamond hone lightly flat on the top surface to remove the burr formed by the grinder. (3) Hone parallel to the bevel to form a new burr. The edge of the hone should be able to reach into the cove that is difficult to reach with a grinder. It only takes a few strokes with a hone to form the burr, which will be very fine and hard to feel.

I would not suggest burnishing against a steel pin because this tends to produce too much of a burr and one that curls back over the top surface. Or if you do burnish, do it very lightly.

Thanks, Geoff, for the reference.

~Doc

Re: Sharpening a Hook Nosed Scraper

Jim Evans

John, as I understand it that area is used to get an undercut on the inside lip of a hollow vessel.

Re: Sharpening a Hook Nosed Scraper

John lucas

You could if you cut from the lip down but i would probably swing the toolnto the right and use the 11 oclock of the rounded nose if you use the area where the straight shank meets the left pointing part i would be really careful