Nexabond glue

Re: Nexabond glue

john lucas

John Let me know how it goes. I'm not familiar with that glue. Years ago I did a test on end grain to end grain glue ups. I took 3/4" square 3" long pieces and glued them end grain to end grain. It's been so long I don't remember exact details but think I used CA, yellow woodworkers glue, Gorilla glue and epoxy.

I tried the glues straight and then tried a wash coat of glue on the end grain, let it dry and then apply all the glues again. when dry I attached a 2 foot long dowel to them with a clamp and put a 5lb weight on the dowel thinking I would slide it out the dowel and measure how far it goes before the joint broke.

On all the straight glued pieces except the epoxy it broke before I moved the weight off the original piece. On the ones with the end grain sizing all but the yellow glue and epoxy broke before the weight got off the original piece. the yellow glue broke when the weight moved a few inches. The epoxy lasted until about 6 or more inches but still broke surprisingly quick.

I was testing to see how end grain to end grain segments would hold up in a segmented piece. It made me decide that to be strong they needed some sort of long grain to long grain support either on the ring above or below or possibly redesign the piece.

The way most of us assemble rings for segmented work is mostly end grain to end grain because we simply cut miters on a long grain piece. However most stacked segment rings are glued long grain to long grain with overlapping joints so that adds the strength necessary for segmented bowls and vessels to hold together.

I'm sure there are other glues out there that hold stronger for that purpose. I hear people tout E-6000 all the time but haven't tried it. There are also some powder resins that you mix with water that are supposedly very good. Can't remember the name this morning. Heck I can barely remember my name most mornings.

Anyway let me know how it goes. I have my table saw up and running now so It could be time for another glue test.

Re: Nexabond glue

Dave Paine

I have a bottle of the Nexabond 2500 L.

I think L is their thicker product. M less viscous and S their thin. For some reason Woodcraft is closing out the S.

I have only used it a few times. Seems to work well.

Re: Nexabond glue

Doug Ladendorf

At the Fine Woodworking Live event a couple years ago they were giving out three bottle samples of Nexabond. I have used mine a number of times and have to say it works quite well. I did not use it for segmented turning or end grain to end grain joints as John mentions. Besides viscosity the difference between them is open time. The thin being the shortest open time.

Doug

Re: Nexabond glue

John K Jordan

In Michael Dresdner's chat he mentions the "amazing" Nexabond glue. Evidently a type of CA. From the manufacturer:

"Nexabond 2500S Instant Wood Adhesive is a next generation cyanoacrylate (CA) glue using wood salts as the primary catalyst to initiate the bonding process. The bond created is strong without the need for excessive clamping force, plus it's quick, bonding in seconds. Nexabond 2500S sets in 1-3 minutes; dramatically cuts assembly time, achieves high strength quickly reaching full bond strength in about 8 hours, reduces or eliminates the need for clamping, can be sanded and finished in minutes, and accepts most stains and finishes. "

I bought some to try (expensive!)

What I want to do is glue a band of basswood into a block of some heavier contrasting wood to make goblets. I've taken up chip carving in my spare time and want to carve on some turning and also send some turnings for chip carver Bill Johnson. I met him recently and was impressed by his work. Check out his turtles!: http://www.carolinamountainreefs.com/

I just had some 3" and 4" northern basswood slabs shipped in to play with. I made a basswood goblet years ago and it is so lightweight it doesn't feel right to me. I'm hoping I can end up with a band maybe an inch high near the top of a heavier goblet. The carving surface needs to be side grain for optimum chip carving.

I thought about making a step recess (like a box lid) and glue side grain but it would be real tricky to keep that glue joint in the middle of relatively thin sidewall of the goblet, especially since it will be a compound curve. Perhaps once the outside was shaped the thing would hold together even if the long grain part of the joint was turned away on the inside. (I always do the outside first) Maybe I could reinforce the outside while hollowing and finishing the inside.

A finger joint with tiny fingers might work well but I have no idea how I would ever cut a circular finger joint to fit properly, unless perhaps by cutting it on the metal lathe. Hmm, maybe make it like a box with a threaded lid? Yikes.

I bought some Nexabond 2500S and will probably buy one of the L as well to experiment with. I'm not against using epoxy if that works better.

I may try some experiments like you did with basswood glued to purple heart or walnut or something.

BTW, John, I showed my bradford pear bowl (with carved handles and feet) to some wood carvers the other day. They were impressed, probably mostly since it was bradford pear and they primarily carve basswood and butternut. :-) "That stuff is HARD!" I'll try to take a picture soon to post.

JKJ

Re: Nexabond glue

John K Jordan

Thanks, I got a bottle of the S and I'm ordering some L to compare. It looks like it will be handy even if it won't work on the end grain.

Not a finger joint-but

john lucas

I have tried, and it worked, routing V cuts using my index wheel in 2 parts and assembling them. It might take a little more accuracy. I kind of did it in a rush for a Christmas ornament to see if it would work. I used the index wheel and used a 1/2" straight bit with my router mounted at 45 degrees. This gave me a V cut. It might take a little experimenting or math to figure out how many V's to give you points at the top a bottom. rout in about 1/2" or so and turn away the middle. Do this on 2 pieces of wood. They will match up very close. I used epoxy as a gap filler. I think if I took more time to lock the index wheel more precisely it would have worked perfectly. Oh yea the depth is pretty critical. I set up a fence on my router table support on the lathe. I used 2 popsicle sticks as my depth gauge. I would move the router and table until it just barely touched the wood. Pull the popsicle sticks out and then rout.

Re: Nexabond glue

Jim Barbour

John, I have been using Nexabond since it first came out a couple of years ago, and like it very well. The S, M, L are setup times: grab in roughly 10, 30, 60 seconds, fully workable (not high stress) in roughly 60, 120, 180 seconds. It seems to be fully cured in an hour or so regardless of the grade, though the company (Sirrus) recommends 24 hours before full stress.

I have found it thickens over time until it becomes difficult to use. This can be avoided by keeping it in the refrigerator at roughly 40 degrees. Since it is not water reactive the cooling and subsequent condensate does not alter the properties, as with other CA glues.

Out of curiosity I tried repeating Joun Lucas' experiment. I took an 8" piece of walnut and cut two 3/4 X 3/4 X 8 pieces and glued them end to end using the S. I allowed it to set up for 20 minutes and then tried the stress experiment. I don't have a five pound weight readily available so I was limited to 2.5 pounds without going to more trouble than I wanted to (it's coming on lunch time quickly ).

I figured the 8 inches would be about all I could get. I moved the weight out 2 inches and waited two minutes before moving it again, beginning at 8 inches. Surprisingly, it broke the joint right as I reached to move it from 36 to 38 inches. It held the full two minutes at 8, 10, 12, 14, ... 34, 36 and then separated. Someone else can do the math to figure how far that would be using a five pound weight.

~ jim

Re: Nexabond glue

John K Jordan

I seems like it would hold a rim on a goblet. I received a bottle of S today to experiment with. I haven't opened it yet but it seems pretty thick.

I see it comes with the sealed cap with an integral pin to prevent clogging.