How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Clifton C

Dave, if you grab and pull the threaded spindle part while wiggling the body part it will come apart. you shouldn't even have to use strong language...

Worst one I ever rebuilt we drilled a 1.5 inch hole in a board set the live center nose down and tapped the board on the edge of a bench...Spindle and bearings popped right out.

cc

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Dave Paine

Thanks for the post Clifton. I may have the OneWay live centre from Hades. Mine does not want to come apart.

I screwed a nut onto the threaded end, mounted the nut in a metal vise and then used a plastic headed mallet to whack the side of the body. The brass cover is loose about 1/2 way.

So far strong whacks, no strong language, but no movement.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Dwight Rutherford

The brass cover needs to be screwed completely loose before you can get the bearings out. Suggest you spray PB Blaster or some other penetrating oil into the housing and let it soak overnight, then unscrew the cover.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Dave Paine

I applied Kroil. This works well on my hand plane restorations. Has enabled me to loosen some rusted screws.

I am not able to get the brass cover completely unscrewed, since it hits the flange on the shaft. If the shaft will only move after the brass cover is unscrewed, then I am in a Catch-22 situation.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

josh bowman

Ok, I'm thinking your bearings are stuck in the housing (which might be an indication of what's wrong with yours). The brass plate on mine just rotated up to the threaded part of the center, then the whole thing slid out of the housing.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Dave Paine

Thanks for the pictures. This helps me better understand the situation.

It does seem like my bearings are stuck in the body.

I may have to make a spacer to engage on the shoulder of the body and be above the flange so I can use the 3/4in nut to pull the unit out of the body.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Dick Coers

Can you use a snap ring pliers and keep unthreading the brass plate? This may just "jack" the bearings out.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

josh bowman



Here's a close up of the brass "cap". Hope it helps. But it does sound like the bearings are stuck in the housing.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Dave Paine

I do not have snap ring pliers.

I machined a bushing to go over the threaded end with holes for two pins to fit into the brass cover.

The pins are bent which shows the force I had to exert to loosen the brass cover.

I have straightened the pins, and attempted to use the brass cover to pull out the bearings. I may be at the end of the threads on the brass cover - I did try with a spanner wrench in the hole in the body. I did not want to twist so hard I messed up the threads in the brass cover - easy to do in a soft metal.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Dave Paine

Thanks, this does help to see what mine should look like.

I just tried to use the bushing and pins to use the brass cover to free the bearings. It feels like the brass cover is now screwed all the way out of the body, but the bearings are not willing to come out.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Dwight Rutherford

Harbor Freight has a pin wrench that is used for this application

http://t.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=Pin+wrench

I agree the bearings are bound up in the housing. A liberal dose of Kroil allowed to soak overnight then apply some heat to the housing should allow you to unscrew the cap. This draws the bearings out of the housing.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

josh bowman

Alright, it's time for the big dogs. Or at least hot dogs. Heat the housing up with a propane torch, just use even heat, and see if the housing will expand faster than the bearings.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Dennis in Southern Oregon

Maybe it is time to call Oneway tech support. The one time that I had problem with my lathe they were very helpful.

Re: How does the OneWay live center come apart?

Dave Paine

Thanks for all the replies. I finally got the bearings out - but it was not easy.

I machined an aluminium spacer to fit over the brass cover and register on the main body. I had a piece of steel with a hole bigger than the flange.

I used a 1/8in long punch in the knockout hole to prevent the inner shaft from rotating.

I mounted the steel plate in my metal vise, screwed on the nut and carefully tightened. Took a few tries to hear it start to move. I had applied Kroil over night.

The bearing assembly is now removed.

I removed the retaining ring and no surprise - the inner shaft is not wanting to drift out of the bearings.

I will need to take this to a friend who has a hydraulic press.

This should not be so difficult.

I'm having trouble understanding the pic

Dick Coers

Are there 3 bearings there? What is going on, that all 3 of those items are not lined up?

Re: I'm having trouble understanding the pic

Brian Roberts

I believe the center piece is merely a spacer....with a larger hole thru the center for shaft clearance?

Re: I'm having trouble understanding the pic

Dave Paine

The previous picture was as far as I got at the time. I thought two bearings with a big spacer.

Today I got the bearings out. I had to go to my friends who has an arbor press.

This is all the components. For some reason OneWay use two spacers. The larger one is close to the bearing outer diameter. The inner one is far larger than the shaft diameter.

Before I pressed out the bearings I tried seeing how far the bearing would go in the housing before binding.

I used a Sharpie to mark the housing before inserting the bearing.

After the test fit I can see the bearing is binding at the end of the first machined section.

After I get replacement bearings I will do this test again.

I do notice that the initial roughness of the bearing when hand rotated disappeared as I started to free the bearings. I am thinking the force of pressing the bearings in place but pressure on the race.

As best I can measure, the housing diameter may be 1 - 2 thou smaller than the bearing outer diameter. With an arbor press, easier to force this in place than it is to remove.

Re: I'm having trouble understanding the pic

Josh Bowman

My bearing assmy. slide right out of the housing. Do you think that the bearing has been spun in the housing? What I mean is that might have caused the housing to be deformed/left metal inside.?

Re: I'm having trouble understanding the pic

Dave Paine

I know what you mean about spinning. I have seen such issues before e.g., bearings on a motor shaft. I had to scrap a motor on a metal lathe due to such damage.

I see no signs of spinning or gauling on either the bearings or the housing, no signs of LocTite or other adhesive. I think I happen to get a housing which is too small for the bearings. Machining tolerance working against me.

When I get the new bearings I will check fit and may need to hone the housing so I get a snug fit, but one which I can insert the bearings by hand.

Re: I'm having trouble understanding the pic

john lucas

If a bearing is in there even slightly out of perfectly flat you can get a bind or even a clicking noise. Since you had trouble getting the bearings out I'm guessing that somehow one of them may have gotten out of that perfectly flat alignment. Don't know that's just a guess. I've seen motors do that.

Re: latest measurements

Dave Paine

I have also experienced issues when a bearing is not parallel to the shaft.

The inner races fit tight on the shaft as observed when we pressed them out. I cannot imagine the inner race having this issue.

It is possible for the outer race, but if this happened I think it is due to the machining of the inside of the housing based on measurements I just took.

As best I can measure with my limited equipment, the front machined area is 1.377 in dia (34.98mm). The back is 1.375 - 1.376 in dia (34.93mm - 34.95mm).

The bearings are 35mm outer diameter and 15mm inside.

I decided to try and improve measurements by mounting the housing on the metal lathe and use a dial indicator.

I measured at the start and end of each machined section. A lot of variability and more runout than I expected.

With the dial indicator I can only measure runout at a given point. I am not able to determine difference in diameter at these locations with this indicator.

Runout measurements.

Front as in right in the picture machined area

Start 0 - 5 thou (min - max)

End 1.7 - 7.5 thou (min - max)

Rear as in left in the picture, bottom machined area

Start 0.8 - 5.6 thou (min - max)

End 2.75 - 7 thou (min - max).

I then measured runout on the MT2 extension I used to mount in the chuck. Using a new dead centre, closest to true I have for an MT2 taper. I got about 1.5 thou max runout.

Next I mounted a router pin in the chuck, the closest I have to a test bar. This gave me about 0.5 thou max runout which is what I had when I recently trued up this chuck.

I measured the shaft as best I could on the metal lathe, seems to be consistent and minimal runout. I did not take a picture at that time.

I am concluding the issue is the machining of the housing.

After I get new bearings I will do a test fit and then decide how to get a better fit of the bearings in the housing - use a cylinder hone or to bore the machined areas.

Very useful thread - Thanks

Ken Vaughan

Good information. Have these and they are getting a bit elderly.

Thanks All

Re: Very useful thread - Thanks

Dave Paine

I continued with the pictures and diagnosis in the hope this would be of help for others. OneWay live centres are popular.

Glad you found this of potential use.

Re: Very useful thread - Thanks

John K Jordan

I'm sure many appreciate this, I know I do. I have a couple of these and the mystery is now dissolved!

JKJ