Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998
Website update - more stuff *LINK*
Doc Green
I just added more material to my website. Also revised the Articles Index to make it simpler.
One of the articles is a description of the control circuit of a Powermatic 3520, with a troubleshooting procedure for when the lathe fails to run.
Another one is a project, an easy way to make a rolling pin with handles that rotate.
If you are so inclined, check it out:
Re: Website update - more stuff
David Walser
Thanks! There appears to be a wealth of useful information. I appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with the woodturning community.
Re: Website update - more stuff
Jesper, Denmark
Hi Doc,
I have looked at your site, specifically the Mineral oil/Beeswax formulation. I Use this for end grain cutting boards. I use a 4:1 mixture by weight.
It is also easy to melt the wax into the oil in the microwave oven. 5 minutes on a high setting does the trick. There is no smell og spatter in the microwave, so even your better half will not mind this use.
Remember to use a plastic container and do not use this procedure for anything containing volatile solvents.
Re: Website update - more stuff
Doc Green
Thanks for the tip! I will definitely give the microwave a try.
Great Stuff and new stuff
Jeff Willaford
Looks great Doc. I read through a couple of the new articles. Nice job. Thanks.
Beeswax and switch
John K Jordan
Great set of articles!
I'll try the beeswax formula right away. I have a large amount of beeswax from my beehives and use it a lot, mostly as a friction "polish" and often on eastern red cedar - I like the soft sheen. On small diameter work I hold a chunk of beeswax against the spinning work then melt it with the friction of a small square of cloth. If the object is large or irregular and doesn't allow this I've used a heat gun to warm the surface and melt the wax directly into the wood. The melted wax soaks deeply into cedar wood. I'll try the wax/oil formula.
Concerning the Powermatic on/off switch: this appears to be similar or identical to the switch on my Jet 1642. In some cases it may be possible to repair rather than replace a malfunctioning switch. About 10 years ago my switch failed and I was able to repair it. On disassembly I found that enough very fine dust had gotten inside to prevent the proper mechanical operation of the switch. After cleaning and reassembly I sealed the outside of back of the switch with a big piece of heat shrink and some silicone caulk. This switch has worked perfectly since.
Caution: don't take the switch apart while standing at the lathe. Inside are some tiny ball bearings which will probably fall out to be lost in the carpet of shavings on the floor!
JKJ
Re: Website update - more stuff
Hal Taylor
I second David's comment. I find your site quite helpful, and often times if you don't have the exact answer I need, it gets me going in the right direction.
