More newbie questions!

Re: More newbie questions!

Donna Banfield

This is my opinion, but I never cared for the oval skew. It was one of the first purchases of tools, but I could never sharpen it well, because it doesn't lay flat on the grinder platform. You could, like John Lucas, make a jig or sled that would keep it from rocking side to side as you sharpened, but I'm not a gadget-maker.

SpindleMasters are another thing that the tool makers come up with every few years to get you to part with your cash. Yes, I was one of those :-/. Honing the top of that tool only was never sharper (for me) than sharpening and honing a skew chisel. Just my .02 cents, other's mileage may vary.

Prefer Oval ; Tompkins' V skew

Doc Green

I prefer an oval skew because of the way it handles on the tool rest. Sharpening an oval skew is easy if you use an upside-down belt sander.

I have both the Spindlemaster and Keith Tompkins' V skew. Of these, I prefer the V skew which, for me, is much easier to control on curved surfaces. Both are less prone to catches and runbacks than a regular skew.

Here is an article that describes how I sharpen an oval skew:

http://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/sharpskew.html

Re: More newbie questions!

Bill Jacksonville, NC

Own several different brand regular skews and one round skew. Have no use for oval skew or spindlemaster. Many people have problems sharpening those tools.

Re: More newbie questions!

Dale Miner

I tried regular and oval skews, and while sharpening the oval required a bit more concentration and perhaps a few more tries, I was able to get the oval and a regular both sharp without too much trouble. BUT... the skew and I had more of an adversarial relationship than a friendly one. That is until I bought an Alan Lacer skew with the radius on the bottom (heel) edge and the cutting edge sharpened into a curve instead of a straight skew angle.

With the oval skew, there is not much of a flat to register the tool when making vee cuts. With a regular skew even with the corners blunted a bit, sliding on the tool rest gave trouble, as well as rolling and sliding simultaneously when cutting beads and what not. The radius on the Lacer skew solved both of those issues for me.

Even without the radius on the bottom (heel) edge, I prefer a regular skew over an oval skew.

I have never found an advantage in a spindlemaster over traditional tools, or at least enough of an advantage to warrant the purchase of one.

Re: More newbie questions!

john Veerkamp

I made a spindle master look alike from bar stock. It worked fine but didn't do anything "normal" tools did. I eventually re-ground it into a three faced pointed tool for cutting grooves in bowls and hollow forms.

Spindlemaster forever ....

Geoff Whaling

I love the original longer fingernail grind Sorby 1/2" spindlemaster for particular cuts across endgrain for detail such as ball elements in finials & spin top spindles - none better IMO. They are definitely not suited to volume production or heavy work! Do not sharpen the polished face - hone the top only!

I'm no fan of oval skews, too flexibile due to the narrow cross section. As I use the skew on edge a lot, the ovals narrow edge makes it difficult to control and it damages the tool rest.

Rolled edge skews are my preference particularly the Hamlet style. I have HSS, 2030 & now Thompson V10's. All work well though I'm impressed with the slightly thicker stock material of the Thompson 3/4 & 1" skews - very solid & hold a great edge.

If you are starting out with the skew set yourself up with a short bevel grind initially as it is a little more forgiving & either slacken off the belts on your lathe headstock or use a cone drive centre that will allow the blank to spin freely when you get a catch. Like all tools spend the time to learn to use it well.

Re: More newbie questions!

John Lucas

First do you own another skew. If so practice will let you use it just as well as any other tools. I played with many different skews and skew like tools in the last few years and the differences are only minor. Serious skew users will find some differnces they prefer but new turners will still have the same problems.

There was a really good article written by Nick Cook and Alan Lacer on the differences between the 2. Both swore theres was the best. That's kind of what got me started experimenting. My conclusion. The one you practice with the most will be the one you like. I use an oval HSS skew and a Thompson flat skew alternataly on many projects. about the only real difference I find is the thompson holds the edge longer.

Re: More newbie questions!

Tom

Thanks for all your replies!!!

Here is the video I made on skew varieties  *LINK*


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFlZyGKYro4

Re: More newbie questions!

Philip F Duffy

I have both but rarely use an oval. Donna has it right. Want to buy an oval? Philip

Re: Here is the video I made on skew varieties

Tom

Thanks John! I am slowly going through the different videos. One question. On the flat skew did you round over the edges , with a file, yourself or did it come that way?

Re: Here is the video I made on skew varieties

John Lucas

Which one? The Thompson skew comes with the bottom edge rounded. The Flat skew I made that looks like a standard flat wood chisel still has sharp edges but it's so thin it doesn't matter.

Not sure how critical it is to have a rounded edge. If you ask most people they will say it's critical. I like it but it's what I learned with so I expect it. The Bedan has square sides and I don't have any trouble doing most of the cuts I do with it. Jean Francois Escoulen uses the Bedan to do things I have trouble imagining. Fantastic turner and when you watch him use it apparently the square edges don't bother him.

Re: Here is the video I made on skew varieties

Joe Fleming

I prefer rectangular skews, but I do file off the very sharp edges on all four edges. I then polish them with a diamond hone.

As for the slide on the tool rest, if you are having any tool catching on the tool rest, you need to get out a file and smooth off the rest. I dress my tool rest regularly with either sand paper or a file. I finish the edge off with a wipe-down using a paper towel whetted with WD40. I do not tolerate any nicks in rest's edge.

Joe