QotD:How much will you spend w/o trying it 1st?

Re: QotD:How much will you spend w/o trying it 1st

Don Evans

Steve:

There are more considerations to the asking price than just labor. Quality is a large factor (most times) in the price.

For example a company known for quality stuff that last equal to the price is not the case in an item that does the same job but is much cheaper to purchase.

The "knock offs" don't have a reputation for future sales to protect and therefore the inside stuff that makes whatever go can be made much cheaper. Example would be the gear train in an item that has one, the gears can be cast aluminium where the better brand has longer lasting nylon or better steel gears.

It amazed me years ago that a nylon gear running against a metal gear the metal would wear first. Now days they have even better material. But thats another story.

Point is, what it is made out of has lot to do with it also and I'm thinking sanders, angle grinders etc from Harbor as compare to name brands when I write this.

To more directly answer your question though, how much depends on the individual, how much "disposible" income they have.... so the range would be large I think, no one set price.

You cannot put a price on it this simply, because it also would vary depending on the item I think.

As far as the car and house, there is nothing you can do about the way they are sold so you either have to buy it or walk. With the housing market today, perhaps we will see the day that people are allowed to live in one 30 days before purchase. Cars? that will not chance that I can see, GM reported record sales just last quarter didn't they?

Don

Not part of the equation

steven antonucci

The facory only builds whatever the spec is. If it says steel, it's steel. If it says plastic, it's plastic. If they lower cost by lowering material costs, it has nothing to do with question, and very little to do with where it is made.

In short, if you see something that costs less than you expect it to cost, do you lower your expectation of quality? Do you have a financial threshold that you have to cross before you will put your hands on it and use it first before plunking down cash?

(I do, but I'm waiting before I share my thoughts so as not to color the conversation)

S

Buy the best, ONLY once

Bill Turpin in WNC mountains

I will not buy a $5 hacksaw frame. It probably will not cut cold butter! If I know that it is the best, can find it, and afford it, I would probably spend $30. Paying for new technology is always a judgement call. I want version 2.1 at least. I will not buy 1.0.1 unless it is $10 or less. I check Consumers Reports, internet reviews, and best of all: what my WC friends say. I like demos and hands on. I will spend $20 to build exactly what I want when I could have bought a near substitute for $10. Quality in measurement devices and cutting tools is paramont. Always buy HSS or better. When it is a fifteen mile one-way trip to replace a broken or dull drill bit, how long does it take for "CHEAP" to be overcome by $3.00 gasoline? I have some HF chisels, customized for seldom, one-purpose use. It is hard to beat 8 tools for ten bucks. They are supposed to be HSS. I will pay good money at garage sales for old American tools that are old enough to be true quality.

I also object to paying $30 for a tool that could sell for a profitable $15. I took a math class ten years ago. Professor was a former accountant for Windex. A case of twelve spray bottles, selling then for #2.28/bottle cost Windex a huge total of $0.32/for all bottles, sprayers, contents, labels, and the box. Capitalism is fine, but that was ridiculus!

New, expensive tools must have a return on investment. Does the tool return more benefit than its cost?

Re: Buy the best, ONLY once

ebd

New, expensive tools must have a return on investment. Does the tool return more benefit than its cost?

A couple years ago I bought a B&D Hedge Hog. It looked pretty hefty (compared to other electrics) and the box said it could cut a 3/4" branch. Well after not a heck of a lot of use it started jamming on larger branches and would sometimes choke on something as small as 3/8". When It jammed I had to tap the tip with a hammer to get it unstuck.

Now I have a Stihl 45. The smallest that they make but still a beast. It doesn't even blink at something 1" or so. Rips through the worst stuff I have and no cord to mess with (and be carefull of so you don't clip it). Do I have enough bushes to justify $300 - probably not. Is it worth $300 not to have the agrivation - you bet!

Re: QotD:How much will you spend w/o trying it 1st

robo hippy

Steve,

Now, wait a minute here, is your car worth more than your wood shop????? Shame on you! Get your priorities in order here.

I do tend to the higher priced, better quality tools. Most of the time the expense is worth it. I will never own any Ryobi or Harbor freight tools. They may work, but after 30 plus years as a concrete construction worker and finisher, I have found that it often pays to have things overbuilt rather then going with minimal standards.

Made in China does not always mean lower quality and lower price, so you do have to shop to make sure you get what you want and need.

Also, my dad's business (Gray Manufacturing in St. Joe, MO), has been around since 1952 making the best tools in their industry. They cost more, but work better than the competition, and outlast them as well. They sell factory direct only. Perhaps that is why I relate to Robust lathes and Thompson tools. The same ideals.

Maybe it is like gasoline. With Arco, my van gets 20 to 21 mpg. With Shell, it gets 24 to 25 mpg. Well worth the extra cost.

robo hippy

great question

Matt Overton

It usually depends on the function of the tool. If it is unique (like the Festool Domino), the unique ability of the tool outweighs the price. Quality is also very important on items that will be used alot. I will buy cheap Chinese tools only for those tools that I will use infrequently, and probably never own if I had to pay the "right" price. My downfall is buying tools. I will spend up for, or "justify" buying tools more often than other everyday items. I do, however, agree with Bill in general, buy the best, buy once.

Re: QotD:How much will you spend w/o trying it 1st

Doug Thompson near Cleveland

Most of us buy a product without trying it out and woodturners are in a league of there own. How many tools are bought because they are hyped to be the lastest, greatest, fastest and then sit in a corner after the first week of use. Woodturning is expensive because no one questions the price of the products we use matter of fact the higher the price we think it must be better yet... it's the beginner woodturner who really needs to watch what they buy. The Windex example is nothing... think before you buy.

Even numbers are the limiting factors when it comes to money, $20, $50, $100, $500, $1000 we think a different way as the numbers change.

My decision process

steven antonucci

It's a series of questions for me:

1.) Do I "value" this tool as an object or is it "just a tool" to get a job done- i.e., Lathe Yes, Tile saw, no.

2.) If Yes to #1, is the tool "expensive". This is fuzzy, since I would say that $250 is expensive for a Lee Valley plane, but inexpensive for a Ryobi jointer. Like others, I try to make educated decisions and, if I can, put my hands on all of these tools before buying. Even better if I can use them in a shop setting...

3.) If no to #1, I evaluate the cost of owning cheap vs. renting 'better quality'. I almost always buy unless the tool creates a long term storage problem. I have no expectation of quality other than the tool needs to last "one job". In every case, they have lasted much longer than I expected. I would rent a cement mixer to avoid storing it, but I bought a cheap angle grinder to power my King Arthur bits and cut off steel bars .

S

$127.93 without tax or shipping...

Jim Rutten

...and not one penny more.

Re: QotD:How much will you spend w/o trying it 1st

Bruce

I would rather "cry" once when I write the check for quality than "cry" every time I need to use the cheapy!

USD or CAD?

steven antonucci

Re: QotD:How much will you spend w/o trying it 1st

Bill Jacksonville, NC

My first lathe bought from a catalog, turned out to be junk. I did some truly amazing things on it before it fell apart. Next lathe said made in America on the box bought from a store 60 miles away. Gave to a friend, after visit to welding machine shop to remove reeves drive add a pulley and new bearings all for $170. He was very happy with lathe and cost. Ten years later have that lathe back now sitting in a corner of the shop minus homemade stand.

Bought and sold a Jet mini, which saw light use from Woodcraft. Jet 1642 bought from amazon.com. Band saw bought from Grizzly.

So never really had an opportunity to try a tool before buying. Information from books, catalogs, and internet help my buying decisions. Of course tool departments and hardware stores and catalogs helps with impulse buying. Pretty sure my Jet 1642 made in China now days. Even with free shipping most expensive tool I own.

Answer to the question too much!

Company History? Reputation? Warranty? ? ?

George Guadiane

I bought my PM3520 without ever having turned on one.

In arriving at that decision, I did a lot of research and talked to a lot of people about their experience. Now that I have one, I tell others what was told to me... Best Bang For The Buck, IMO.

I bought my first (of 3) Rolly Munro hollowers as the result of a conversation with someone I respect and trust.

When I was starting out, I didn't have the kind of network I have now, and couldn't just get on one. In my mind, that kind of trust allows me to make judgments about products without actually working them.

So, in my case, thousand$.

Re: QotD:How much will you spend w/o trying it 1st

charlie belden

Normally there's a tool I need for something I'm working on or plan on doing.

If the former, and the tool is available locally, I'll go buy one I think will do the job.

If it's the latter, I probably will ask around for recomendations, and reasons for the recomendation. I'll take that advice and get what's recomended.

Sometimes it's a used tool that wasn't overused or abused - at half the new price - and already assembled. I may not have an immediate use for it - but often this type of purchase opens up possibilities for future projects. If I've got the cash I'll usually seize the opportunity.

Then there's the Revolutionary Tool - one that does something already being done - but does it quicker, easier and more accurately. The AKEDA Dovetail Jig and the Festool DOMINO were two such purchases. Saw what they did and why they are head and shoulders above other ways of doing what they do and handed over The Card - a Debit Card, NOT a Credit Card. I NEVER rent money. If the money ain't in the bank "it" don't get bought.

Then there's the One Of Many tools. They all do basically the same thing, but in different ways - captured hollowing systems for example. That purchase involved researching what was available, considering each one's strengths and weakness - without actually getting to play with any of them on a piece I have in mind - and picking the one that fits my immediate and foreseeable needs. Once the selection is made, if I have the money available it's purchased. If I don't have the money - I'll wait and save up for it rather than get The Next Best.

Buy Once, Cry Once is advice I've found to be true. I got the MiniMonster because it's the best for what I want to do. The price, coincidently, was also very good for what you get with that system. I'll be getting a replacement for the one I gave to a turner with more talent and imagination than money.