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minwax antique oil finish

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minwax antique oil finish

#1

minwax antique oil finish

David

>Within a couple of the many, many threads on finishing techniques during the past few months, somebody (a regular, but I can't remember who) gave favorable mention to the minwax antique oil finish. Well, I happened to have a can of the stuff in the basement, so I decided to exeriment.

First at bat was a very small box elder bowl (more like a soapdish, since that is apparently how the in-laws are using it). This one required sanding between coats. I think the oil raised the grain a bit, but also, it almost felt like a poly-coat on this wood. It ended up with a reasonable sheen once I put some paste-wax on it.

Second at bat is (still in finish process on the lathe) a cottonwood burl. The burl came from a Rocklers store off a gift certificate, and was one of a handful of bowl blanks there that didn't have a giant crack in it. This wood is so unbelievably dry I think you could use it as a paper towel. But it has turned a very pretty bowl. Anyway, the stuff is very thirsty. It has absorbed the minwax antique oil finish like crazy, and I will probably put on a bunch of coats. I'm a little disappointed, however, because I really like the look of it when the coats of oil are still wet (not buffed yet), and of course, when I buff it down, it takes a duller finish. Maybe when I get to the wax coat it will shine up a bit. Also, this wood was really light in color when I turned it - very light - not anymore! When it got hold of the oil, it was like a different bowl, almost black walnut kind of dark. Looks much better dark.

This is my first experience with cottonwood. My take is that I like it. Turns pretty easily, fairly forgiving stuff that allows you to "erase" sins, and a nice looking piece of wood all around.

Anyway, the big question is, what is your take on the minwax antique oil? Like it? Hate it?

David B.

Re: minwax antique oil finish

#2

Like it....

Tony - Memphis

>I started using it when i started woodworking and was still buying everything from the big box stores. Its just a varnish oil blend, so nothing fancy, but I do like it. I have used it a lot on mahogany flat work. I usually do 4-5 coats, buff and wax.

Tony

Re: minwax antique oil finish

#3

Re: minwax antique oil finish

Russ Fairfield

>There is a difference between the oils that are used in the commercial finishes. The Antique Oil is a very simple finish that is based on Boiled Linseed Oil. The others use Soybean Oil and drying agents to make it polymerize into a finish. All finishing oils are not the same. You have just discovered the difference in what they leave behind on the wood.

Re: minwax antique oil finish

#4

Re: minwax antique oil finish

Bob Clancy

>I used it all the time, until it became a bit hard to find. Then I switched to Minwax Tung Oil, which appears to be a very similar varnish-oil blend. I've used it on a wide range of woods, and love the results. first coat soaks in, and seals the surface somewhat. After a day I hit it with 0000 steel wool, or 600-grit, depending on the surface. Then another 2-3 coats, with complete drying and 0000 steel wool between coats. The steel wool really makes it feel good! The more coats, the glossier.

Re: minwax antique oil finish

#5

Re: minwax antique oil finish

Fog Tanner

>I use the Antique finish all the time on some cedar pieces I make. I found that the instructions on the can didn't suit what what I was doing. They said to let it sit for 10 minutes and then buff. I wound up letting them sit overnight and then buffed with the Beall System. Which works fine as I generally make them in batches of fifty or more. I like the darker color that the finish imparts to the cedar. On some pices that had a bland appearence, it really changes the grain appearence. For a gloss, I turn to the Beall buffing system. If I want a satin finish, I just use 0000 steel wool. I make a lot of tooth pick holders, which is all spindle work. The finish on a lot of these is good enough straight off the skew and no sanding necessary. For the ones I do have to sand, I go through 220,320, and 400. Then the Minwax and buffing or Minwax and steel wool.

Fog

Re: minwax antique oil finish

#6

Re: minwax antique oil finish

Philj

>Hi

I've been using it for the past ten years and I use it on everything excepy salad bowls. I use three coats and sand with 400 grit between. Then I buff using only tripoli and white diamond. I stopped using wax as I have found that it eventually gets smudged and dulls.

Re: minwax antique oil finish

#7

Re: minwax antique oil finish

Bob Clancy

>What I do regarding drying time is to let it get a bit tacky then turn the lathe on and use a fluffy soft (Viva) paper towel to buff it. Let dry overnight, 0000 steel wool, repeat. This builds up a nice finish without 'plasticizing' it. Never tried buffing.

Re: minwax antique oil finish

#8

Re: minwax antique oil finish

Edward

>I have been using this 'Antique Oil" for many years on turnings and small boxes and I like it very much. Two coats are OK, three are better, I have never needed four coats. Minwax "Tung Oil" is good also. Another, local turner, uses the tung oil on his work with very good results.

I just wish it came in smaller cans. I used to have half the can solidify on me. Now, I use the product from a small glass jar that I refill from the can. I am also trying out a small plastic oil can. This way the Minwax can stays closed most of the time amd does not gel-up. I used the last can to the bottom.

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