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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

Skewed over Parting

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Skewed over Parting

#1

Skewed over Parting

David

>Today's questions/issues:

1) My Sorby skew is square-ended, which means it can catch easily if I'm not super careful. I'm interested in pros/cons for rounding off the corners, or rounding the whole front of the blade. How you do that and keep a consistent blade, and how do you sharpen it after you round it? I've hestitated doing this because once you round the front of that blade, there is no convenient going back and starting over if you don't like it.

2) I've got a parting tool that is bent near the handle. The metal is very strong and the blade is straight, but it is now terribly inconvenient to use for its intended purpose. (Sorby sent me a free replacement, by the way, even though the damage was clearly my fault - kudos to those guys!) What I'm thinking of doing is grinding it to a pencil point kid of deal, for the purpose of adding decorative markings to a turning, but I' not sure it would actually leave a scoring mark. I'm interested in what shapes or ideas anybody might have for breathing life back into this tool - aside from use in a knife fight.

Thanks!

Re: Skewed over Parting

#2

Re: Skewed over Parting

Fog Tanner

>When I first started to learn using the skew I started with one that was ground straight like yours. I learned to use it then put a slight radius on it. This is much less prone to catchs, with the same angle. But, if I put too sharp of an angle it catchs more than a straight edge. I use the Tormek to sharpen my tools, so I have a jig which puts the same angle and radius each time. The angle that works for me is forty degrees. At thirty degrees, I get catchs, and fifty is too much for a good cut. I have some skews with rounded edges which are supposed to be better for rolling beads, but I havn't found much of a difference and interchange both. I occasionally use other people tools at a retreat or picnic and it comes in handy being able to use a straight cut skew and not being dependant on the radius grind. It just takes lots and lots of practice pieces.

I found out from Stuart Batty, that Sorby leaves the last two inches of the tool unhardened. The idea being that the tool will bend and not break in a real sever catch. He has a roughing gouge that someone used on a bowl as an example. It bent just in front of the handle.

Re: Skewed over Parting

#3

Re: Skewed over Parting

Ken from SW WI

>I recently reground my skew from straight to curved and am glad I did--it made a big difference especially in the rolling cut, cutting convex curves.

My grinder has big flat toolrests, and I hollow-ground my skew on a 6" wheel. 8" would be better, but I don't have that yet. I ground the edge shape straight across first, then set the toolrest for an angle which gives a bevel length of 1 1/2 times the blade. It took at least a half hour to get the bevels ground where the edges meet in center.

Previously, I had ground the bevels flat on the side of the wheel, but I found the hollow grind to be much better for honing. I also polish the wheel on an MDF wheel charged with white polishing compound, only takes a few seconds and is well worth it.

Re: Skewed over Parting

#4

Re: Skewed over Parting *LINK*

Tom Mullane

>Take a look at Alan Lacer's site.. he is the master of teaching the skew, IMHO. His video "Skew Chisel: The Darkside & The Sweet Side" should be in the library of anyone wanting to perfect the skew. He only uses a radius ground skew and his video shows you how to do it properly...


Alan Lacer

Re: Skewed over Parting

#5

Re: Skewed over Parting

Barry Irby

>I use an angled skew that I have curved similar to Richard Raffin. I like it, but it seems to work better in his hands than mine. Hmmm, Maybe that's why he is Richard Raffin and I'm not.

I did round off the corners along the length of the blade, with some trepidation, but that was a good move. The corners were sharp and prone to grab on the rest.

Why can't you knock the handle off your bent parting tool, heat it with a propane torch and straighten it. Super glue it back into the handle. I would take a whack at it based on the idea that you can't break something that is already broken.

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