End Grain Smoothing

Re: End Grain Smoothing

Mike Schwing from Md.

>David, first thing to remember is that end grain isn't face grain. On some species, end grain finishes out like glass where the face grain does not. More often though, it is the other way around.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with starting at a lower grit. Even if I manage to produce tear out free work, I will still start sanding at 80 grit. I find it produces a very clean, even surface from which further refinements are easy. I think Russ said that he regularly starts at 60 grit. This can cause problems if you're going to put grooves in or do carving as the face grain and end grain sand at different rates and a heavily sanded bowl won't be truly round. But for most work, no big deal.

I also tend to start with 80 because it takes less time in the end than starting at 100. Follow on grits take nearly no time at all when you start with a good surface.

Also, there are many treatments for end grain tear out. Stiffening up the fibers with glue, shellac, or sealer helps in some cases, when softening them up with oil or water works in others. You have to experiment to find what works on a particular species. I find that shear scraping is more effective when done with a very low speed and a very sharp tool than with a higher speed.

Finally, don't expect the end grain to finish out exactly like the face grain. That isn't to say you should accept tear out, bruising, or tool marks, but sutble differences are not just acceptable, they're preferable. The differences are one of the things that makes wood so special. Might as well be working with clay otherwise.

Re: End Grain Smoothing

Wally Dickerman

>David, there are a couple of things that you can do that will help take care of end grain tearout. Learn to shear scrape. Following shear scraping on most woods you can eliminate the heavy sandpaper grits. Oil sanding and using oil while shear scraping will do wonders. I use a finishing oil, but mineral oil works as well. Just wipe on a coat of oil before and while sanding with the heavier grits and you'll see a big difference.

Wally

Re: End Grain Smoothing

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>David,

Mike and Wally have giving you great information. The only thing I can add they they did not mention is - sometimes you have to stop the lathe, and sand the endgrain sections alone - then when the surface of the endgrain is good, start up the lathe again and sand lightly to remove the swirls caused when the lathe was stopped.

(Another option - take up segement turning where the whole bowl is facegrain. ;>) )

Mark

Very strong argument Mark,

Jorge Castaneda ~ Downeast Maine

>(Another option - take up segement turning where the whole bowl is facegrain. ;>) )

I think you convinced me.

Me thinks of trying...:o)

Jorge

Re: Very strong argument Mark,

David

>Thanks for the advice, everybody!!!! Greatly appreciated.

Re: Very strong argument Mark,

tom libby

>Bunch of great posts! Thanks to all.

Tom