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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

Riser Blocks (long)

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Riser Blocks (long)

#1

Riser Blocks (long)

Phil Joines Krum,Tx

>I was asked for some details on how the risers were add to LOML's lathe. Here are some pics. Apologies to Ray, the description I sent you were for a set made for another lathe. Here's the correct one.

Actually if you have a table saw it's pretty easy. Basically, I removed the headstock, it's held on by 4 bolts, and used it's mounting surface on the bed to make a rubbing. That's the pattern. I calculated the pieces needed to make the "box" out of 6/4 stock. I resawed the side pieces to match the thickness of the existing headstock. The pieces are used with the grain running up. Cut all the pieces to width. I decided on the height increase we wanted, in our case it use 6". Don't forget that the swing will be increased twice the height of the riser. I cut the two side pieces to length on the table saw. The front and back pieces are cut to this length plus the height of the tennon that goes into the bed. They are cut square on one end. I measured the width of the tennons on the front and back pieces and set the blade height to leave this amount. I moved the fence to give the height of the tennon. With the pieces standing on edge and using a miter gauge I cut the bottom side of the front and back. Checking with a square they are glued up. Since it's good enough for Norm a brad nailed was used to keep the pieces from shifting :>). After the box dried the female mortise was cut and the bolt holes drilled. The riser was bolted in place using nylock nuts and a link belt was made up in the new length. Threaded rod can be used if long enough bolts are hard to find.

The tailstock riser was made at the same time so the cuts could be made without changing the saw settings. It�s a solid block built up from the same wood as the other. The mortise that aligns the tailstock to the bed doesn't need to be more than 1/4" long. The mortise for the tailstock was hand cut.

A new tailstock lock bolt was welded up using a 3/8" bolt and a plate made from 1/4" thick plate. The hole for the locking cam needs to be a close fit. A hole was drilled through the tailstock riser to keep the lock bolt from getting out of alignment.

I rounded over the outside corners to match the contours of the lathe but it isn't necessary.

As it turned out the tailstock was a bit off. A piece of brass shim stock added under one side with the ends turned up and held be two brass nails corrected it.

Delta used to stock these. It's too bad they dropped them.


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Re: Riser Blocks (long)

#2

Tailstock riser 

Phil Joines Krum,Tx

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Re: Riser Blocks (long)

#3

Tailstock bolt 

Phil Joines Krum,Tx

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Re: Riser Blocks (long)

#4

Re: Riser Blocks (long)

Raymond Overman in SC

>Thanks Phil... now just to find a tuit. One of the round kind.

Re: Riser Blocks (long)

#5

Re: Riser Blocks (long)

Doug Trembath

>As was posted here not long ago, Phil, I did the same thing years ago when I was longing for a larger lathe, but didn't have the bucks. I made mine out of Lexan cutoffs I bought at a plastics store in the LA area. I glued up three pieces with their special glue, milled them as you described, and used a long nut to reconnect the original tailstock lever bolt. It looked kinda funny, but I turned some big vessels on it, especially after I found a 1HP DC motor, made up a wooden base for it, and hung it under the lathe. I built a big, heavy cabinet base for it to sit on, and turned to my heart's dicontent, then bought a real lathe, a Vicmark VL-300. Now, THAT's a lathe! I said to myself.

I still have the ol' Delta, but the risers have been removed, and it's relegated to spindles when I get a job for them. Still works great!

Be careful you don't overdo it with the risers, and try to turn too big too fast. The castings just aren't built for that amount of torque, and can let go. DAMHIKT!

Best of luck!

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

Re: Riser Blocks (long)

#6

Re: Riser Blocks (long)

Raymond Overman in SC

>I wonder if emachineshop.com might be an answer to making the risers. Custom machined aluminum risers? It would seem they'd be as durable as wood. Would I be wrong?

Re: Riser Blocks (long)

#7

Re: Riser Blocks (long)

Doug Trembath

>Actually, Raymond, aluminum would be much better, in that wood compresses, and may, over time, be less of an answer than something a bit more rigid. I say this only from having pushed the envelope quite a bit with the machine I modified to make larger items. I don't want to cast aspersions on using wood, but I've had to replace wooden items in the past for much the same reasons. In fact, I worked on a bundle carrier, a machine that carries heat exchanger bundles around a refinery, and they had used a wooden drive pulley to drive a flat belt. The wooden pulley didn't work out too well in this application, over time, and I finally had one made from steel. It cost us quite a bit, but the difference in longevity and increased performance more than made up for it. This was the experience that convinced me not to use my initial thoughts of using wood to make my risers, and led to the idea of using state of the art plastic instead, which was something I could machine myself with my woodworking equipment.

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

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