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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

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For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#1

For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

RonZ

>..>> I know the picture isn't great but it might show. The pens are from unstabalized red mallee burl slimline titanium pen kits. I had already made one pen from my standard sand up to 400, Myland's sanding sealer, friction polish followed by carnauba wax. The other pen used CA glue as a sanding sealer and finish which I sanded via micro-mesh up to 12,000. I put renaissance wax on both which is what I do when they go on dislplay to prevent finger prints.

Do y'all see a difference?


img

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#2

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

Jonathan Spool

>Lets see them again after 5 years in someone's pocket!

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#3

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

Carole in VA

>I see a very slight difference in sheen, but tha might be due to the finer sanding. I wonder about the durability of friction polish vs CA.

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#4

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

Jim Shaver Oakville, Ont.

>Hi Ron,

Thanks for doing this.

I have tried the same on other woods, I have seen that the friction polish lasts longer on my stabilized materials and completly disapears on natural hardwoods.

Th look though of both the CA finish and the friction finish look great off the lathe...I think I am going to really try harder to get better at the CA process though, it should last longer, right?

Thanks again for the demonstartion, nice looking pens and wood by the way.

Take care,

Jim

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#5

Which kind of friction polish ?

Fred in NC

>There are a couple kinds: shellac and lacquer. I don't use them anymore.

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#6

Re: Which kind of friction polish ?

RonZ

>The only friction polish I haven't tried is Beaut from Australia which I hope to pick up when I'm in the USA in June. I have tried the rest such as Hut and Behlens. The superior one to date is Myland's. It's shellac based and I think it probably might contian some rottenstone to get their high polish. Bonnie Klein uses the Beut but says she thinks that both Beaut and Myland's work the same. They only friction polish that's different is the one I make for larger items. It doesn't dry as fast and is basically shellac, alcohol and artists' linseed oil. I'm going to try adding some rottenstone and see if that makes it any better.

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#7

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

RonZ

>Well, from what I understand, I'd like to see them at 10 years. Again, this all depends on the application but wood fluctuates in size, contains its own oils, etc. so IMHO friction polish is the only finish that will meld with the wood and won't have problems with those issues when used on unstabilized wood. Shellac and wood have been together for centuries and have stood the test of time. Just look at a Stradavarius violin. If the stabalized blanks are done with acrylic, then certainly CA would be fine as they are of the same family and friction polish is not. If I understand correctly, all pens will develop their own patina. My job is to make them look as beautiful as they can when purchased and hope it will merge with the patina. I sold a nice briar pen to someone and visited a couple of years later and it looks more beautiful now than when I made it.

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#8

No ones told me which one is which yet. =o)

RonZ

>

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#9

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

RonZ

>Hi Jim,

Thanks for the compliment.

What you probably observed was that the friction polish wore off on your stabilized pens and the shine from the stabilized pens remained, i.e. you possibly didn't need the friction polish to begin with.

Keep me posted on your CA finish because for me now, it's very time consuming with little difference at sale time. As for longevity, I'd like to see them at 5-10 years. Again, this all depends on the application but wood fluctuates in size, contains its own oils, etc. so IMHO friction polish is the only finish that will meld with the wood and won't have problems with those issues when used on unstabilized wood. Shellac and wood have been together for centuries and have stood the test of time. Just look at a Stradavarius violin. If the stabalized blanks are done with acrylic, then certainly CA would be fine as they are of the same family and friction polish is not. I sold a nice briar pen to someone a couple of years ago and I visited them recently. It looks more beautiful now than when I made it.

All the best,

Ron

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#10

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

EagleS.C.

>"Do y'all see a difference? "

nope but my monitor needs cleaning:>)

I started using Mylands 3 step a few months ago and love it.

I still will do a CA with or without BLO depending on how much abuse the customer will give it.

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

#11

Re: For Jim Shaver, CA vs Friction polish..>>

Jim Shaver Oakville, Ont.

>Hi Ron,

Thanks for your feed back. Yes I will keep you updated as I work with my CA finishes.

Right now I am in the middle of a sizable run on pens for my Canadian Peacekeepers, all friction polish and wax on natural maple and white oak.

I will get back to revenue pens in a few weeks.

Take care,

Jim

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