>HI Ken, a couple of thoughts. If you have formed the complete exterior of the goblet, your stem may not be strong enough to support the hollowing cuts.
I would recommend forming the rim shape first, then begin hollowing while there is lots of wood for support. Form the complete goblet "bowl", hollow it, then begin turning down the stem. Some turners fill the goblet with a soft material, then bring up the tailstock for additional support.
to hollow, I use a detail gouge for smaller goblets, starting in the center and working outward. the tool is cutting with the lower edge of the grind, the bevel is rotated so only that lower edge contacts the wood. I don't bother drilling a hole, the gouge works just fine.
>Sounds like you may have another problem. Have you turned the stem? If so, you may have made a mistake. I don't do many goblets or stemware pieces, but my son does. You turn the bell or the glass first but do not turn the stem, leave it thick for support, and you hollow first. You will need a bowl gouge or a hollowing tool of some description. Very difficult to do with a shallow or spindle gouge. After you hollow it and shape it, you reduce the size of the stem and then shape the foot and Part it off. You have to gently support he bell while doing this.
>Barry and Keith are both right. There is one other technique that might work but only if you've left the stem thick. Drill a hole to the depth of the bowl and then use a round nose scraper to hollow. When I first learned to make small boxes I used scrapers. They work well for this but not as good as a bowl gouge or spindle gouge used the way keith describes.
>Try making a jamb chuck that you can insert the total goblet into with only the rim exposed. If you make the chuck fairly thin you can cut a cross cut in it and then use an stainles clamp on the outside to tighten the goblet in. Put masking tape on the band for safety. Use small tools and make light cuts.
Next time do the stem last. My method would be to round the block, cut the center out, sand and finish the inside. Then reverse chuck to finish the outside doing the stem last.
>Hi Ken, May I suggest that you get some green, freshly cut limbs about 3 to 4 in. diameter. fix about a 6in. length in a scroll chuck, face plate or glue block and practice hollowing til it feels comfortable. I imagine hollowing dry mahogany on your own at your first turning wouldn't be easy or much fun for anyone.
Using the method Keith suggested, you might want to try this: Use a sharp, small (not over 1/2 in.) shallow or deep fluted gouge. With left hand on the tool rest as a fulcrum and the flute toward 10 o'clock push the handle away from you to sweep the edge in a continuous circular path from center to rim. Cut upward from center toward 9:38 O'clock:), then down to the center line in the area where the bottom becomes the wall. Continue sweeping up the wall until the bowl is too deep to hollow in a continuous sweep. Then use a pulling cut up the wall to the brim. Take thin cuts with the lower edge of the gouge and just clearing the upper edge.
Be deliberate and not timid if you practice this.
Most of you know what I'm trying to describe. If I I am too confusing or if I said it wrong, please simplify the mess or correct me right away.