Not much faith in my Stihl dealer

Re: Not much faith in my Stihl dealer

John Lucas

>Carole

I never use the chain brake on start up of my Husky. It just doesn't start as well. I have to run it at half throttle or higher until it gets warm or it wants to stall. I suppose I could run let it idle but You know It's a man thing I guess.

I've always cleaned air filters for my lawnmowers, chain saw, etc using gasoline. At least I used to. Nowdays I usually blow them off with the air compressor unless they look like they've collected a bunch of oil then I toss them and put a new one in. If it was a sunday and nothing was open I would probably still clean them with gas. Letting them air out until dry before you useing them is probably a good idea and if you smoke I would consider holding off until your done. If you don't you may be up for a Darwin award.

Re: Not much faith in my Stihl dealer

Lan Brady

>Carole,

Both of you are right, it is just time frame. When I learned to cut wood, the chain brake was for emergencies only,not starting.Back then you always cleaned the filter with gas and saturated with oil before reinstalling.

Modern equipment- you have electronic ignition and don't need all the high reving to get it started. Use the chain brake until you fill very comfortable starting your machine.

Also using warm soapy water is great for cleaning the modern synthetic filters.

I have read some of your other post about light weight saws. I weigh 200+ and still use a light weight saw. Since I am not a professional logger, I prefer to be stronger than the horsepower of the saw in case of a kickback. It will happen if you get careless. Keep the tip of your saw out of the wood as much as possible. The tip guard is a good addition that people should not remove except when the job cannot be accopmplished by any other means.

It takes a few seconds longer but having all your fingers and toes are worth the time.

Good Luck, Lan

Re: Not much faith in my Stihl dealer

Russ Fairfield

>Don't be too hard on the guy. You gotta remember that chainsaws were made for using out in the woods where a can of gas is a lot closer than an air compressor. They do start easier without the chain brake being engaged. And that little run up after starting clears the carburetor and oils the chain so you will be ready for some serious cutting.

I can't see where he did anything wrong. While what he did may not have been by the safety book, he gave you a good practical lesson about the way things are done in the real world.

Re: Air Filter

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>In the field, the filter can just be brushed off. However, since the carborator side of the sponge will tend to accumulate oil from the fuel mix, it's a good idea to rinse it with a little fresh gas (without oil mixed in) followed by a rinse with a little detergent and water, and allowed to dry well before installing. I do this after about 15 hours of run time to keep maximum flow through the filter sponge.

As far as starting with the chain brake off, if done on the ground with the saw secured with one hand AND ONE FOOT on the handle plate, it's fine. Drop-starting with the brake off is asking to be a bit (and pieces) player at the ER.

M

Re: Not much faith in my Stihl dealer

Ruth in S.Cal

>I have never used the chain brake when starting. I also never drop start. I place my husky on the ground, check that the chain is slightly raised off the ground, put my right foot in the handle, left hand on the handle bar, and just pull the chord. It usually takes a couple of pulls but I have no problem starting. Though I have a small saw now, only a 350, I used to have a huge one (460 I think it was)with a 30" blade. I started the same way then.

I sold the big saw because while it was great for falling, it was just much to heavy for bucking and limbing.

I also always wear my steel toed boots, gogggles leather gloves, long sleeves and chain chaps - always.

The thing noone has mentioned in any of your earlier posts is that you let the chain do the work....don't move the chain back and forth like a hand saw......

To be honest, I clean out my saw of dust every now and again, but I don't do too much else. It all depends on how often you are going to use it.

Re: Not much faith in my Stihl dealer

Barbara Gill, Remlik VA

>I also never use the chainbrake when starting my chainsaw. I also swish the filter in gas before I blow it out.

Re: Air Filter

John Lucas

>Mark

I've been known to Drop Start a chainsaw while hanging from a rope 50 feet in the air trimming trees. I wouldn't recommend it but I don't like climbing around in the tree with a chain saw that's running. That rope cuts awfully quick when hit by a running chain.

Re: He's OK

Bruce McElhaney Spring Lake, MI

>I go along with everyone else, no brake, and rev it up to get it going. . . Remember, unlike your car, a chainsaw has a 2 cycle engine. (the oil is mixed with the gas) So there's no need to worry about starting it slow and warming it up to get the oil pumped up and circulating from the oil pan. I try to keep the filter clean, and gas cleaning is fine for me.

OK, thanks guys and gals!

Carole in VA

>Just a cautious newbie I guess! LOL I am one of those people who actually reads the manual before operating any equipment I am not familiar with and starting with the brake on and cleaning the filter with a non-flammable cleaner were two things they emphasized in the Stihl manual. Just protecting themselves I suppose. The saw starts instantly with or without the brake so I probably will continue to use it. That way I know I won't accidentally tilt a moving blade into the dirt, rocks, etc. I have a lot to learn, but I want to keep all appendages while learning. Thanks for your patience with my questions!

Re: Not much faith in my Stihl dealer

Russ Fairfield

>Learning something new every day, I had never heard the word "drop start" until I started seeing it in these messages. I always thought that was how a chainsaw was supposed to be started.

Re: Not much faith in my Stihl dealer

Carole in VA

>I have read on several forestry sites and chainsaw safety sites that drop-starting is "against the law" or "illegal". If that is fact, how the heck do they enforce such a law?

Re: OK, thanks guys and gals!

Fog Tanner

>Carol, sounds like you are on your way. I have a Stihl 290 and read the manual too. Setting the brake and use of nonflammable cleaning fluids are more to do with product liability than anything else. I peronallydon't use the brake when starting as I want it to be there when I need it. Also I don't want the initial load on the engine and I am carefull about the blade location relative to other objects. But, that is a personal preference.

The heart of your saw is the engine, the rest of it is just an addon. They elude a little in the manual about care, but they don't tell you the whole story. You should clean the saw up after every use to get any oil or fuel residue off. This will collect dirt and eventually find its way into either the chain oil or fuel tank. Also the grime that acumualtes is an abraisve compund which doesn't do the finish any good. Same with the bar.

When you first start using the saw and it is cold, let the engine warm up for a minute or two. It has nothing to do with lubrication as that is in the fuel mix and pumped through the crankcase, it is about letting the cylinder and rings expand to their operating size/deminision. All engines have an operating temperature at which they run the best. Once it is warm, you can usually start it and go.

I talked to a tech at Stihl about the engine. I was having some problems with mine and needed some information. At first he deferred me back to the dealer, but I mentioned that I dealt with high performace 2 cycles for almost thirty years, and the story changed. We discussed the carburetion system, and I found that the settings are EPA mandated. The engine comes with the fuel mixture setting on the verge of going lean. That causes the engine to run a little hotter and in theory burn cleaner. It also causes the engine to wear out sooner and really doesn't have a cleaner exhaust. He said the engine would make more power, turn more RPMs, and last longer if the setting was a little richer. You can guess what I will be doing to the setting on mine.

When you are through, it is best to let the engine idle a few minutes to let the fan cool the cylinder down a little. You really want to avoid any sudden changes, the cylinder really won't appreciate it and will let you know. The difference between a round cylinder that seals and one that leaks is only .0004 of an inch. So, you want to give it every chance it can get.

Another thing they don't tell you in the book. If you are storing for a long period of time and have drained the fuel and run it dry, get some Marvel Air Tool oil, pull the spark plug and put about ten of fifteen drops in the cylinder and pull it through with the plug out - slowly. Put the plug in and you are set for the winter. When you go to use it again, pull the plug, put a rag over the sparkplug hole, and crank it over a few times to get rid of any excess. The cylinder won't be starting dry and your rings will last a little longer. The Marvel Air Tool oil is a water displacing oil and will cut down on any rust. You especally want to do this if the fuel you are using is one of the blends that has ethonal in it. That will suck in moisture and you can get rust in a short period of time. I avoid any gasoline with alcohol in it. The high performance two cycles I deal with have a percentage of methonal and will get rust within a few days if not oiled. And they have a better oil than is used in chainsaws.

Best of luck with your saw, although you sound careful enough to make your own luck..

Regards,

Fog

Re: Not much faith in my Stihl dealer

Fog Tanner

>Basicly, the honor system and the overhead satellite eye in the sky. If you ever do it, you are supposed to turn your self in immediately, with sattellite picture to follow. Its like the tag on your mattress and pillows.

Having lived in the sixties, now I am going to have to go out and drop-start my saw, just so I can break another stupid federal law....

Re: Can We Spell

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>B u c k e t T r u c k?

|;-}}

Re: Easy Law Enforcement

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>Here's how it works, Carol.

1. You drop start your saw.

2. It torques around, fires, and neatly severs your left femoral artery.

3. You manage to get a tournequet on the leg before you pass out and bleed to death.

4. You explain to the EMS and the ER people that "the saw jumped when it started after I pulled the rope."

5. They report it to your insurance company who happens to have a glitch in the policy that states that they will not pay for treatment of injuries resulting from your own violation of law or applicable safety regulations.

6. Your fine is the medical bills that will force to you to have to sell the saw and most of what you own to pay.

See, that was really simple . . .

Stay safe, OK?

M

Re: Not much faith in my Stihl dealer

bill Crommett in seneca

>Fingers and toes are one thing, but a good kick-back will get you in the face !

Re: Can We Spell

bill Crommett in seneca

>Not at fifty feet !

Re: OK, thanks guys and gals!

bill Crommett in seneca

>Remember one thing:--- the manual was written half for the user and the other half for (and probably by ) the company lawyers.

I Had

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>a 60 footer in my yard for a dicey take down of an 85 foot poplar. Guy told me they have a 90 foot crane available if they really needed it.

M

Re: Easy Law Enforcement

RonZ

>This is kind of like the Darwin awards label on the electric clothes iron - 'Do not iron while wearing clothes.'

Great.

Bob Hackett

>Now everybody has to iron naked.Time to buy blindfolds for the dogs.

Must be a federal law.

I wonder if the pillow police enforce it.You know,those guys that come and arrest you if you remove the tags from your mattress or pillows.

Mainely,Bob

Re: OK, thanks guys and gals!

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Carole, I'm a dedicated manual reader as well. Wouldn't dream of turning on a piece of expensive power equipment without reading all about it first.

You don't need any more advice/response than you've already received, but you're not the only manual reader out there.

I start my saw, break disengaged, on the ground, one foot on the starter plate. I'm a small guy with a pretty big saw. (Stihl MS 360Pro). I'm also totally obsessive about keeping it clean, and as sharp as possible. The teeth on my chains get touched up before or after every session. Just makes the cutting go so much faster.

Storage, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>How long of a storage interval would you say would warrant the cylinder oil treatment procedure?

Re: Storage, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.

Fog Tanner

>If the mix has alcohol in it, every time. If not, just when you are storing for the winter (i.e. several months). And there is a difference between the Marvel Air Tool oil and the Marvel Mystery oil, the Air Tool oil is water displacing and the Mystery oil isn't. It also wouldn't hurt to pull the piston to BDC and let some run in the crankcase and them move the saw around to try and get some on the crankshaft.