Question to all on Coring.

Re: Question to all on Coring.

Ron in Drums PA

>Barry, I'm not the expert on this. . .

I take one of the blades and hold it above the turning, look down at both the blank and blade. Then I measure the starting angle with a highly scientific measuring tool (my eyeball reinforced with reading glasses).

Kidding aside, I'd rather err on side of the core being to small and shallow. I'm sure I'll screw up a bowl sooner or latter while coring, until then, I'm having to much fun to worry about it.

BTW, I apply candle wax on blade before cutting.

Re: Question to all on Coring.

Eduardo Sarmiento Hall-Lima Peru

>well find in the web look for lyn magiamelly

he is got a whole lot of articles about it

Re: Question to all on Coring.

John Lucas

>Barry

I don't have a coring system but use a lazer on my boring bar. Would it be possible to set up a lazer above the piece so you just trace the arc you want. John

Re: Question to all on Coring.

Doug Leite

>Barry,

I've setup a laser pointer that I point at the tip of the blade, that way I always know where the tip is cutting. It's prevented the blowouts and thin bowls that you mentioned.

Aloha,

Doug

Re: Question to all on Coring.

Fog Tanner

>You might give the Mike Mahoney DVD a look. Mike shows how to set up the entry angle and to change it if you need.

One of the points that isn't mentioned, is the curves on the blades are based on "production" bowl shapes. Steve Russell is in our club and has done a lot with the McNaughton system, and there is a link off the Kelton site to Steve's instructions - much better than Kelton's. He enlightened me to the shape. If you turn your bowl with the outside curve that matches the curve of the blade, it is much easier to core the bowl without mistakes. But, as with all other things in turning, it just takes practice to gain some profiency.

If you do a search with Google, you can find some pictures of someone using a laser on the McNaughton. They are simple to make and I thought about making one, but decided on more practice instead...

Re: Question to all on Coring.

Barry Irby

>That's pretty much what I do, but every now and again the "manly man" gene kicks in and I rush it.

Adjusting the height of the cutter has made a huge improvement. No more bucking and kicking. Just runs right in. Also, cranking the speed up on the lathe helped. At about 750 rpms it does a good job of cutting and clearing the shavings.

Thanks, Barry Irby

Thanks

Barry Irby

>Don't all the curves have to be some section of a circle? A section of an oval would not cut it's own clearance would it? HMMM!

I am sorry the blades are so thick, they take a pretty wide swathe. A shame someone does make a laser that would cut on a curve like those blades, only very thin.

Thanks to all of you.

Barry Irby

Here it is *LINK*

MikeinCapeMay

>Fog,

Thanks, I was looking for something like this as well.

Mike


Steve Russell

Re: Question to all on Coring.

Darryl Hansen

>Barry, "done that" have several funnels myself. Make good shelf decorations if placed high enough so no one can look in them! Try this. Get some 3/8ths aluminum flat stock. Bend 90 degrees. One leg the length of the blade the other height (call it the leg)of your swing plus a bit. Put the flat of the leg against the flat part of the handle. The other tip will be over the tip of the tool. The tip of the tool by the way is always in line with the handle. Realized that while watching Mike Mahoney's video which is great.

Duh! One picture is worth .....

Barry Irby

>I have been using the gate wrong. I tried it the way it is shown in the pictures and then somehow decided the blade should be deeper down between the pins and have been using it with the fat pin and one smaller pin in front of the knife and one smaller pin to the rear. I even remade my plastic sleeve that supports the gate. I wish the printed instructions that came with it were better.

I have been to the web site and failed to find the photo that came up with your link. Thanks.

Why are there three pins of two different sizes? Does it have to do with turning outboard?

Is it that way just to confuse those of who are dis-graphic?

I saw Raffan demo and he put the gate near the head stock with the blank mounted to the opening of the small bowl and the base of the large bowl toward the tail stock. The Knives were curved the other way. He cut a chuck foot on the large bowl and cored it off. Then he cut a chuck foot on the medium sized bowl and cored it off. Then cut the foot on the smaller bowl. Maybe its that I saw that way first, but somehow it makes more sense to me.

Thanks for all the help, keep it coming.

Barry Irby

Re: Duh! One picture is worth .....

Ron in Drums PA

>Barry, the new gates have 4 pins with the distance between each pin different.

Re: Duh! One picture is worth .....

Gary in Zirconia,NC

>The post has different pins for different knives. The large set of knives will not fit in the slot the standard knives fit, etc.

Re: Duh! One picture is worth .....

Doug Trembath

>Barry, Kel made a different set of tools to core from the headstock toward the tailstock, and some of the guys like it better since you don't have to remount the blank to form a tenon, as you describe Richard doing. I haven't tried this configuration, but it seems logical. Remember, though, that the knives are curved the opposite way from the original, standard set. Also, on the pins used to support the blades, you may notice that there is a "rise", or elevated platform between the pins that are closest together. This is the slot for the smaller knife set, the larger set is used in the other, larger slot. The new ones with the four pin setup have a slot for the smallest, mini set, I presume. Most I have seen have three pins, making up two slots, for different sized knife sets.

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

Re: Question to all on Coring.

Barry Irby

>Thanks to all who have responded. I have learned a lot. Obviously I should have gone to the McNaughton website and poked around sooner and I should have asked here sooner. Sometimes you don't know that you don't know.

The lack of Instructions with the tool as it comes out of the box is both good and bad, I suppose, but it seems mostly bad. I understand that they don't put indexing locks and scales and calibration devices on the tools to leave the most possible flexibility, but it seems that a simple explanation of why the posts are arranged the way they are and what the step is for would have been good. Not having two different sets of knives to compare, I did not understand that they were made of steel of differing thicknesses and that the slight difference in the spacing of the posts was to accommodate that thickness difference.

Just including the advice to go to the web site and that there are training videos available would have been a push in the right direction.

Thanks again to all of you. I like the tool and am getting better with it. I'm considering setting up a cardboard or plywood template that will allow me to trace the path of the knife better and work with more confidence.

I cored a small bowl yesterday. I put the knife on the upper step and ran it so that it rubbed against the two pins that were on the side where the ways are. The outer side of the knife rubbed against the the larger bowl (the one I was coring). It seems that the knife should ride in its own path and not rub on either bowl or core. Any suggestions?

Barry Irby

Re: Question to all on Coring.

adrien

>Darryl,

I assume you're suggesting a way to make fewer funnels. Could you post a diagram of what you're doing with that aluminum stock? I couldn't make out how you apply it.

TIA

Re: Question to all on Coring.

David Propst

>Mike Mahoney's DVD on using the McNaughton tool is very helpful and well produced. I picked up a number of tips on the first viewing. Most turning shops have it or order it from Mike at www.bowlmakerinc.com. I ordered from him and got the DVD in three days.

Best Regards,

David