gluing waste blocks again, please

Re: gluing waste blocks again, please

Andy in Raleigh

>You missed nothing. All those glues are overkill and TBII is probably the least expensive. I have been using thickened epoxy. I have a lot of it around and I have 3 waste blocks (1 faceplate and two home made "nut in a block" ones) so having it cure overnight is no big deal. Also epoxy needs no clamping pressure, bonds fine even if my mating surfaces are imperfect (they usually are) and does a great job with side grain or end grain.

Re: gluing waste blocks again, please

Earl

>I've never had the medium or thick CA fail. Why not use that? Fast & easy and only have to wait a few minutes.

I built furniture for years with plain ol' Elmer's white glue (before yellow, Gorilla, etc. was even made) and never had trouble with joint failures as long as they were properly milled. So if you want to use the white or yellow glues, any of them are going to work just fine.

Earl

Re: gluing waste blocks again, please

Ron in Drums PA

>Earl is right, yellow glue is just white glue with an additive to help it dry faster.

Re: gluing waste blocks again, please

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>There is a bunch of info about Titebond glues at Titebond.com.

Basically, as you progress up from Titebond to Titebond II and Titebond III you get increased resistance to water. I would think that would be sort of irrelevant for a waste block, right? (I have not gotten to Waste Block 101 yet)

Re: gluing waste blocks again, please

DWFII

>Andy,

Mixing epoxy...especially the non-5 minute kind...has always been kind of a problem for me. I don't know why. I try to be precise as to equal measurements but it never seems to cure right. Of course it's been a while since I tried and now I see that some outfits have come out with non-critical ratio epoxies.

I like the idea of epoxy especially if it will turn off (part) clean. And I especially like the idea of not having to clamp. I have clamps but it's awkward to clam a roughed bowl blank.

Do you have any suggestions as to what kind or what brand to use? No 5 minute epoxies, I suppose?

DW

Re: gluing waste blocks again, please

DWFII

>Earl,

I don't cotton to the fumes. I used CA to finish pens for a while and at first it was OK. But the longer I used it the more I didn't want to be around the stuff. I started developing some benign (?) arrhythmia about the time of my most frequent usage. Who knows...probably coincidence but....

I still used Ca for spot work but I apply it an leave the vicinity. And evven then I'm not happy if I get a whiff.

DW

Re: gluing waste blocks again, please *LINK*

Andy in Raleigh

>Hmmm...

I have not had trouble with epoxy mixes and I eyeball my 2:1 mix quite often. The syringes you get from the hardware store (LocTite?) are fine if you don't get the quick curing stuff (not the 90 sec, 5 min or 15 min varieties). I have bought a lot of epoxy from RAKA.COM and am pretty pleased with it. But if I were buying some just as a general purpose adhesive (I originally bought mine for doing some fiberglassing), I would get it from US Composites at the address below. I would either get the thin resin with the 3:1 medium hardener or get the thick epoxy with the 1:1. Either way, you can get a kit that will last a long time for about $12 + shipping. If you get the 3:1, you might want to get the pumps with it.


http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

Re: gluing waste blocks again, please

Don Henthorn

>That was going to be my question. Why are you concerned about water resistance for a glue block? I know you aren't going to turn under water. Just use white glue, Tightbond I or Tightbond II and get on with the glue blocks.