>I bought a 2 ounce bottle a year ago. When I went to use it for the 1st time yesterday there was only a 1/4" left in it. It seemed to be tightly closed, but apparently it wasn't. Are there certain conditions which cause it to be volatile enough to force its way out of the seals? I kept it in my shop which really doesn't get too warm.
Also, does anybody know what the activator is made of?
>I used to buy those little brown bottles of the stuff. Hated them. Had to put the little spritzer pump on each time and then it only half worked. It would push itself out through the pump so you had to put the cap back on each time. A hateful wasteful packaging system.
Buy the type in the aerosol spray can. Seems to last indefinitely and it works every time. A significant improvement. $12 or $13 at Woodcraft is a little pricey, but at least you get to use all of it without the hassle.
I have heard that water with a little baking soda in it will work, but I have not tried it.
>In my experience, CA will set just fine w/out it, but much slower. Moisture in the wood will act as an activator, so just giving the joint a good dose of woodturner's breath will probably set up the CA just fine. Too much moisture, or the baking soda, can cause white foaming, which isn't usually desirable.
Of course, I live in the humid Northeast, usually turn green wood, and may even have special bad breath properties !
>I agree with Barry. I like the aeresol much better. I don't use accelorator unless Ihave to. It makes the joint brittle. I do use it when gluing the wood block on my hand mirrors because I can hit it sharply with a mallet and it will pop right off leaving the wood on the wasteblock and mirror intact. If I don't use accelorator it will almost always tear wood out of one or the other. If your using it to glue a bowl on a wastebloc a catch will pop it right off if you used accelorator.
I use Isopropyl Alcohol(rubbing Alcohol). I just refill the spritzer bottle. It drys just almost as fast, but it does not turn snowy white if you overspray.