Re: why specifically for spindle work?
Doug Leite
>Ruth,
Something about the shape of roughing gouges makes them unfit for work mounted with the grain running perpendicular to the spindle centerline, or bowl orientation, or side grain mounted. I have tried with my 1 1/4" P&N and also my 1 3/4" Henry Taylor shallow spindle gouge, and they both just tear off chunks of the wood. What seems to happen, is that when the endgrain part of the log approaches the cutting edge, the wood just lifts off of itself and a large chunk separates causing an enormous catch, or a large piece of the bowl blank goes flying, if the whole blank doesn't become detatched and takes flight. Now, when the same piece of log is mounted with the grain running parallel to the spindle centerline, or mounted endgrain as is the common reference, there is no endgrain in the cutting plane as all of the grain runs lengthwise. When turning endgrain, I have difficulty choosing between the 2 previously mentioned tools. When I turn in bowl orientation, which is 80% of the time, I use the largest bowl gouge practical for the side of the piece of log. One of my favorites is my 5/8" Henry taylor super flute gouge or a 1/2 bowl gouge from Glaser. One last thought, look at the latest Craft Supply catalog, along the listing of every roughing gouge that they sell is the disclaimer "not for use on bowls". There must be a reason.
Aloha
Doug