>I opened a can of Waterlox back around Thanksgiving. Each time when I'm done, I squirt some propane in the can and close the lid. It's February now with only about 1/3 of the can used and the rest has turned to gel.
I've been thinking if I poured some Waterlox into a couple of small vacuumed sealed bottles, I may get a longer shelf life.
Has anybody ever try this, or care to share a tip on how to lengthen the shelf life?
keep the can "full" so no air sits in there. Better than propane which I find doesn't work as well as I initially thought when that can get past 25% empty.
Pour out only what you'll use and then add more marbles to the can to fill it. Since what you poured out will be taking on oxygen as you use it, don't put it back in the can as it will start the rest down Polymerization Lane and gel the whole can. Warmth will also encourage the process so keep the stuff in a cool place (not the frig - causes condensation). Obviously it's better to go a bit short of the use estimate and then pour a bit more to complete the job. When the can's used up, rinse the immies off with MS.
Got rather strange look from the woman at the toy store counter when I walked up with 500 marbles.
>Ron, the same thing just happened to me. I poured some waterlox from a one gallon can into quart cans and gave them a shot of propane. One of the quart cans turned to gel. I think I may have given it too short a shot of propane or maybe the propane only slows down the process rather than stopping it? Usually I use it before it goes bad but I have been using less and less Waterlox in favor of other oils.
>I have been using the gas that LV sells with my small cans of polymerized tung oil Sealer. I hadn't used any for several months and I notice that it has gelled. So it could be that a gas only delays the inevitable but maybe I didn't give it enough or....
>I wouldn't think propane is the best gas to use to remove the oxidative catalyzing effects of atmospheric oxygen since propane promotes oxidation (ie., burns and explodes). YOu need something inert like nitrogen, or carbon dioxide (dry ice).
Personally, I don't use marbles any more because when my residual Waterlox finally does polymerize in the can, all my marbles were coated with the gel. Cleaning marbles in MS is not the best use of my time. Now, I simply crush the can (with my powerful manly grip!!) until the finish reaches the top of the lid. And then I store the can upside down. This is especially important when you are near the end and you cannot crush the can enough to eliminate all of the air. Since I have adopted this method (4 years ago), I have not had problems in my cool basement.
>Be careful of some of the collapsable bottles. I have found most to be highly permiable to oxygen. I much prefer the original metal, quart-size can. I think that is why storing the can upside down works well because air can seep in easier through a dry seal and much slower through a "Waterlox-clogged" seal around the rim.
>This was discussed recently on the main board. I have not tried the propane route, so I can't comment on how well it works. Bloxygen reportedly works, but I don't have sustained studies on that either.
One method that always works for me is to pour the Waterlox into baby food jars, right to the top, and screw the lids on tightly.
>I don't use Waterlox, but I've had great luck with Bloxygen on other finishes such as Minwax poly and a couple different brands of salad bowl finish. It's a little pricy at $10 per bottle at Woodcraft, but the stuff really does what it says, in my experience.
>It's been suggested to me that a glass of home-made CO2 does well. Make C02 with white vinegar and baking soda in a glass with a loose cover. When the reaction stops, you "pour" the heavy C02 into the can of finish (without also adding the goop liquid, of course). Anyone else try this?
>Sounds like a fun thing to do the first time and a PITA from then on. I would think with all the paintball outlets recharging CO2 containers that there should be some way to make use of this source.
>The most available inert gas is CO2, and that is as close as your breath. Blow through a handkerchief to capture some of the moisture. Blow into the can of finish, it is as good as any gas that you can buy in a can, and a lot less expensive.
I have always heard the claims about using propane, but I could never see any difference between using propane and nothing.
The real problem is that, every time the can is opened, the finish comes in contact with air (and oxygen) for as long as the can is open. There is no amount of inert gas, water, marbles, or rocks, that will stop the polymerization that gets started every time the can is opened. The simple solution is to is to decant the oil into smaller containers, and don't open them again until ready to use the finish. How small a container depends on how much oil finish is used.
Storage in a dark place with a constant cool temperature also helps.
>The simplest solution was shown to me by one of my club members, Tom Buckner. Pour the waterlox into a glass bottle that has a capacity larger than the volume of waterlox. Fill to the brim with water, which, being heavier than water, settles to the bottom. Screw the jar shut. Every time you use it, refill the jar with water to the brim. Or, as Russ suggests, decant a smaller amount into a smaller bottle so that you are not opening the larger container and exposing it to air as often, and repeat the water treatment in both containers as you use up the waterlox.