My enemy

Re: My enemy

Joe Herrmann

>One of the problems with using a scraper is that the handles are usually not long enough to withstand the leverage. Scrapers require a 7:1 ratio; in other words, for every inch that the blade hangs over the tool rest, you need 7" of handle to counterbalance it. You might try a negative rake scraper in this situation as it is a little more forgiving. I think there was a past thread on this subject.

The problem with your gouge could be in the grind and might need to be more shallow.

What about hollowing tools?

Joe

Re: My enemy

John Lucas

>Bud

You might be catching both edges of the scraper at once. This is hard to describe. When turning a side grain bowl, that is the grain runs perpindicular to the ways I use the scraper from the bottom toward the rim up to the transition area where the vessel starts to close in. I then cut from the rim toward this area so you are cutting down hill with the grain. Then when you get to this problem area go very lightly. When cutting in this area it is very easy to catch one side or the other with the scraper and make the tool flip. Also make sure you are cutting at the center line and keep the handle higher than the tip of the scraper.

Re: My enemy

Bud Gabaree

>John,

thanks for the quick reply. I hear what you're saying about catching both edges and I try to be mindful that I don't. But in this case, where the angle from the side to the bottom is semi-closed, how is it possible to not be touching both sides at some point? It seems that to get a smooth transition, you have to work into that "recess" with a scraper. I think I understand what you're saying about working from the bottom center into the corner, then changing direction and going from the rim down into the corner, but that's where I lose it. I guess patience, repetition and a soft touch are going to have to suffice (that or never do this form again, though I hate the notion of getting my butt kicked by a bowl).

By the way, Craft Supplies is sending me a new, beefier handle free of charge. Gotta love those guys.

Thanks, Bud

Re: My enemy

John Lucas

>Bud

You might try a smaller scraper. When doing fairly tight corners I use my armbrace with a 3/4" hollowing bar that has a 3/16" cutter in the tip. This allows me to cut a fairly small radius without much torque on the cutter.

Another technique I use is how I grind the scraper. Most of them come with a fingernail kind of shape that transitions pretty bluntly into the side of the scraper. I grind this into a nice radius that goes about an inch down the side. I did this mostly for hollowing boxes but several of my students have found this shape easier to use when scraping bowls and hollow vessels.

Re: My enemy

Wood Spinner

>I find I have great controll of this scraper. I turn it up on its side and use it like a skew.

It is a de handled heavy scraper mounted in to a 36" piece of 3/4 pipe. I cut a slot in the pipe to mount the scraper and used packed shavings with CA glue to hold it in.

Good turning and be safe

Bill in Casa Grande,AZ

Re: I second John's use of the armbrace scraper.

Al Crandall --NE of Indy--

>I always reach for the Don Pencil armbrace to reach under wide rims of bowls like you are having trouble with. It uses a 1/4" HSS toolbit which I ground to a full radius scraper. I can plunge this tool into the corner without any "pucker factor" and then by rotating the holder with my wrist I can shear scrape the insides of both walls. I think any of the several brands of armbrace hollowers would be a great addition to your arsenal of tools.

Re: My enemy

Joe Fleming

>I will make a completely different recommendation. You should be turning the entire bowl with bowl gouges - not scraping. I have turned a closed bowl that is about 10" in diameter, but only has a 6" opening with gouges.

How did I do this? I used three different gouges ground to varying angles to accomplish the cuts. The bottom was cut using a gouge that was pretty much perpendicular to the bottom. I did this as an exercise in a Jimmy Clewes class in 2003.

FYI - If you have ever taken a class with Stuart Batty, you will know that he describes the effect that the heel of the bevel has on the inside of a bowl. It makes a repetitive mark at an increment that is equal to the length of the bevel. You can see this effect inside this bowl.

I didn't sand or finish this piece since it was an exercise. The wood is sugar gum eucalyptus from the San Diego area.

Joe Fleming - San Diego

Re: My enemy

JL

>Joe. Very nice wood grain. What finish please?

Re: My enemy

Joe Fleming

>JL,

No finish on this piece.

Joe Fleming - San Diego

Re: My enemy

Wood Spinner

>Joe I do the same thing on an open top like your pic. I do use an arm brace with a scraper for small openings on wide low pieces. But-- You need to remember that all turners do not have the same ability as others. So many turners only use their tools in one direction and have not learned to use a tool as many things.

Bill