drill chuck draw bar?

Re: drill chuck draw bar?

Arch

>A Jacobs chuck, even with machined jaws, is not a replacement for collets, but you probably don't need collet precision (and cost) anyway. The problem with Harbor Freight is separating the bargains from the junk. HF Jacobs type chucks at about $9 are satisfactory for woodturning and the arbors are soft and easily drilled and tapped for 1/4 or 3/8 althread. You don't need to center the draw bar perfectly. Clamping the chuck with its arbor on a drill press table and starting in the OEM center hole worked for me. You only need a short tap. Or cobbling up a clamp to hold the chuck & arbor and using a hand drill with care will work. I suppose that if you want to go first class you coud chuck a piece of 1/2" bar in your HF chuck and use it to better hold and center for drilling. Hope I haven't led you too far astray.:)

Turn to Safety, Arch

Re: drill chuck draw bar?

EagleS.C.

>No. you haven't in hte least.

For making cusom finials I have a "rod" that will accept athe stud from the custom finial.

The HF chuck hold that "rod"

Problem is the chuck does not stay in teh headstock and I was looking for a way to improve it.

If chucks are availaple with a tap for a draw bar I would look one up.

I just figured that drilling by hand wouldn't be very accurate and a

for some reasone I thought the tapped hole should be centered for best results.

I'll give your suggestions a try today and see how it works.

Thanks/

Re: drill chuck draw bar?

Carole in VA

>Don't remember where I got my either of my chucks, but both have a screw in the recess in the end of the taper that can be removed. I screw in a length of threaded rod with a wing nut on the end as a draw bar.

Re: drill chuck draw bar?

John Lucas

>Sears has a 1/2 chuck that is already predrilled for an arbor. It also comes with parts so it will hold a grinding wheel or buffer. It is listed in thier lathe accessories section. Don't bother asking the Sears salesman. They don't even know this thing exists. It comes in #2 or #1 morse taper.

It really doesn't matter if the hole in the arbor is accurate or not. If your tapping the hole be very careful to not breakt eht tap. Drill the hole deeper than you need and fill it with oil before tapping. The oil helps push out the shavings.

Re: drill chuck draw bar?

Arch

>I might mention that tapping the end of a spur center taper can also be a helpful dodge. Screw in a short bolt with a head smaller than the spidle bore or remove the bolt after hammering the spurs into a blank. Saves mushrooming the center.

Turn to Safety, Arch

Re: drill chuck draw bar?

chris K

>The 1/2" chuck with arbor from Woodcraft has a 1/4-20 hole in the back of it. And aty 39.99 is not a bad deal.

I have been unsuccesful at finding other JT - MT shafts that have this tapped hole. I checked enco, MSC, etc

Re: drill chuck draw bar?

EagleS.C.

>HMMMMMMM?

$40.00 from Wood craft,

$9.95 from HF,

I can tap a lot of holes for $30.00,

It is nice to know what the cost of a tapped hole is though.

Thanks:>)

Re: drill chuck draw bar?

chris K

>Eagle if you have a tap etc then by all means have at it. But the shafts should be hardned and breaking a tap in it will kill it and put you out the money for a new tap as well. Maybe since the Chuck is HF (IE cheap) the shaft is softer.

Re: drill chuck draw bar?

Chris K.

>FYI

Lee Valley has the same units for $23.95 with the 1/4" already tapped.