Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998
Timberwolf blade ?
MikeinCapeMay
>I need to order a couple blades for my bandsaw. Is the Timberwolf AS style the .032? I want a 3/8" 3 or 4 tpi but I'm not sure on blade thickness, I'm thinking .032 for a wider kerf in wet wood and I'm wondering if that's the thickness that the AS is. Thanks..
Re: Yup
Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey
>The AS band is the heavier guage band. I just changed mine. Lasted me more than 2 years.
Thanks Mark
MikeinCapeMay
>The one that I'm replacing is a Timberwolf, like yours about 2 years of service and a whole load of bowl blanks and misc. stuff went through it. I couldn't remember if the AS is the correct one for green wood bowl blanks. Thanks.
PS
Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey
>Make it last longer by removing bark before cutting. Bark contains a lot of grit (wind-blown sand,even small stones, etc.) that is quite abrasive. Remove it before you bandsaw and you'll extend you blade's life by quite a bit.
M
Re: Yup
Fog Tanner
>I just bought another 1/2" AS blade to replace my 2+ year old blade. After reading the thread on sharpening bandsaw blades, I spent about 5-10 minutes with a dremel tool on the old blade. The new blade is still coiled up hanging on the wall. It will be interesting to see how much I can get out of this blade before it breaks or I run out of something to sharpen...
Yeah
MikeinCapeMay
>Like the chainsaw blade, dirt is the kiss of death. It's amazing how quickly it dulls an edge.
Re: Yup
Steve Mushinski
>You just extented your blade double. I know of a couple fo guys that take the dremel to a new blade as they swear it is sharper afterwards.
Re: Yup
Jerry Whitaker
>What are the specifics on the stone you use for sharpening your bandsaw blades with the dremel? At the price of those things, I am interested in trying it.
Re: Yup
MikeinCapeMay
>Me too and where is that thread, here or the flatside?
Re: Yup
Fog Tanner
>I am afraid there was nothing scientific about the stone selection. I have four Dremel tools a a large assortment of stone, burrs, cutting wheels, etc. I picked a cylindrical stone that was about 3/16"-1/4" is diameter, one that would ride on the back of the tooth without hitting the tip of the upper tooth. Set the speed on the low setting and started grinding. It's really not that difficult once you get started.
There is a previous thread that had an illustration of where to grind. And, if the blade is dull, you really can't hurt anything. If you make a mess of the grinding job, you were going to buy another blade anyway and you will have learned what not to do when you do the next one.
