Turning Green to Finish Question

Re: Turning Green to Finish Question

Russ Fairfield

>Some suggestions on wet sanding green wood....

Are you using water when wet sanding the green wood?

If not, use a lot of water and keep it wet.

Sand with only the coarse grits to refine the shape and remove the tool marks while the wood is green. Save the final sanding with anything above 100 for after the bowl has dried. There will be enough raised grain during its drying to make any sanding with finer papers a waste of time.

There is no need to use wet grade sanding medium. You can use an open-coat Aluminum-Oxide in 60, 80, and 100 grits. The only thing that isn't waterproof is the glue that bonds the grit to the paper or disc. The grit will come off, but the slurry will sand just as good, if not better than a wet grade sandpaper.

The only difference is that the paper cannot be used again, and you will have to clean all of the sanding mud from the wood. Use a laundry sink or take it outside and use a water hose to do this. Some dishwashing detergent will help. This piece of wood is green. The water won't hurt it.

Re: Turning Green to Finish Question

Ron in Drums PA

>With a green bowl I wasn't really sure what to do so I starting with dry sandpaper, then I tried water. Maybe I just need more water to help flush the mud off the paper.

It makes sense the the grain will raise. I guess once the bowl is dry I'll need to go back and sand off the lathe to get a good finish. I can't imagine sanding a warped bowl while it is spinning.

Russ Said . . .

. . . you will have to clean all of the sanding mud from the wood. Use a laundry sink or take it outside and use a water hose to do this. Some dishwashing detergent will help. This piece of wood is green. The water won't hurt it.

LOL

I didn't wash the bowl, not that I would have thought I'd ruin the wood. But just didn't think it would have helped. Now that I'm thinking of it, how else would I get all the mud off.

These are is a good tips to remember, thanks Russ!

Re: Turning Green to Finish Question

Peter Teubel

>Almost all my work is green-to-finish. If the wood is REALLY wet, I'll gently dry just the surface (inside first) with a heat gun. Then sand. After the 1st or 2nd grit, the friction will keep the wood dry enough for sanding. Once the inside is done, THEN I'll move the to outside using the same technique. Works great for me...

use oil instead

Leo Van Der Loo

>Hi Ron

If it will not clash with your planned finish, you could use oil to sand with, its also clogs, but not as bad, use a stiff brush to clean your sand paper, works for me.

Have fun and take care

Leo V

Re: Turning Green to Finish Question

Ron in Drums PA

>How high on the grits do you go?

Do you completely finish while it is still on the lathe or do you let it dry a couple of days then finish sanding?

Re: use oil instead

Ron in Drums PA

>Thanks, I almost always use oil as my finish.

A belated response...

Peter Teubel

>Sorry for the delay. Work really interferes with my personal life (grin).

I usually start at 100 or 120 (but I've been known to use 60 on occasion) and sand thru 400 grit. I sand to finish, sign bottom, and apply my finish immediately (or within a couple hours of completion). Woodcraft brand urethane oil. 5 coats over 5 days with light sanding with 800 grit inbetween coats (like 30 seconds or so). Buff with the Beall wheels.