Glue for segmented turnings

Re: What kind of glue for segmented?

Danny Wells

>Why no responses? Is it a trade secret? or poor subject line?

Re: Glue for segmented turnings

Earl

>I'm sure many will respond eventually! I have done several laminated bowls but no segmented bowls. I'm making a 16" tall vessel right now. I am using plain ol' Elmers Wood Glue (the yellow stuff). I have done wood work for years and have never had the yellow stuff fail on me so I figure it ought to work just fine. First couple I used Gorrilla Glue because it's supposed to the world's strongest, but it takes so long to dry that I got tired of waiting for it. I also use a trick I learned years ago...and have never seen it on turning lists...I coat one piece with wood glue. I then dab a few spots of CA glue on the other piece. When connected the CA glue dries very fast because of the moisture in the wood glue. It holds the two pices in place so they don't slide around while the yellow glue sets up (with clamps).

Earl

Re: Glue for segmented turnings

Larry

>Titebond II

Re: Glue for segmented turnings

Rob Ceraso

>I know many segmented turners use Titebond II. I also have used Titebond II with good results. BUT - on a couple of projects, I have had some problems with creep where the glue joints start to raise.

After some discussion with the local woodworkers club and with several other segmented turners, I am now "trying" Titebond III. Also suggested to me was cold press veneer glue which I have yet to try.

So far the results are better with Titebond III.

Anyone else have creep issues with TB2 ?

Re: Glue for segmented turnings

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>I have used the all, I think.

White glue (PVA) - sets a little too fast if you clamp all, stays sort of flexible for life, and creeps like hell.

Yellow glues

Titebond (all)- set slow enough to work with 36 segments all being clamped at one time, yet 20 minutes later you can remove the clamp if you need to, and 45 minutes later, you and work with it (carefully). Original Titebond is not water resistant, but that can be a good thing - it comes out of your clothes. Titebond II has a shorter working time, is water resistant, and displays somewhat less glue creep than the orignal. I have only done one bowl with TBIII, but saw no practical advantage to it.

Hot Hide glue - I was the lone voice in the wilderness using this for about 1.5 years. I still think it is the best glue if you use the process of gluing 2 segments together at a time, etc. It tacks quickly, does not display glue creep at all, is pretty cheap, and is easy to clean up with water - even after drying (or you can just throw the squeeze out back in the glue pot. However, if you glue all segments into a ring at one time like I started doing last August, it does not allow enough working time unless the air temp is up above 90 degrees. At 60 degree room temps, you are asking for thick glue joints.

CA - I have used it on occasion for segments, but the brittleness of the glue, does not work well with the movement of a segment bowl through climatic changes - joints tend to crack. (This is where the slight flexibility of yellow glues is an advantage). No glue creep

Polyurethane (Gorilla Glue) - this works just fine if you can clamp. The down sides are the expense, and the mess. You have to work with gloves on, and the foaming, etc is a mess. However, if you wipe off all the squeeze out down with Acetone, it is not too bad. It is probably the best glue to use if you are building a segmented bowl that will actually be used and exposed to water.

What do I use, I now use Titebond (Original). It works, and if you do not try to build your bowl and finish it all in two days. You will get glue creep. However, if you allow thing to dry completely before sanding (a week after final gluing) and finish well, creep is not much of a problem. If it was good enough for Ray Allen, it is good enough for me.

There you have my opinion, for what it is worth. Your mileage may very.

Mark

CA as a clamp for real wood glue

John Trant (Baltimore/DC area)

>I use the "CA glue as a clamp for real wood glue" trick to hold the segments together of my Keith Tompkins-type of swirly vessels. Just a dot of CA glue on the ends (which will eventually be cut off when I do the final shaping) gives me time to make the proper adjustments but cures quickly enough so that fatigue prevents me from maintaining the proper joint. Works great. Since TiteBond tacks so quickly, I haven't needed to use this trick with my traditional segmented work.

John

Re: Glue for segmented turnings

John McAtee

>Titebond II until Titebond III came out and am now using the latter.

Re: Thanks to all...

Danny Wells

>I appreciate the responses. For my purposes, looks like I need to try Titebond II or III or Polyurethane.

Thanks again for the input.