radius skew

Re: radius skew

Peter Teubel

>I use radius skews exclusively. Personally, I find them easier to use and more versatile...also less catchy with the long point down.

Re: radius skew

pete

>pete..

can any skew be reground in this fashion..

or is it a waste of effort???

Re: radius skew

Mark Kauder. Phenix City, AL

>John,

At the Turning Southern Style two yours ago, I sat in on several rotations with Ernie Newman, from Austrailia (you probably know him as the guy that does the history trivia in the AAW Journal). He is a skew expert/specialist. I asked him about the Radius Skew. He says that Raffen made it popular, but even he has moved away from it. He says that it works well for planing type actions, but the difficulty seeing the bottom corner when cutting beads, and the difficulty seeing the top corner when cutting V's makes it difficult to use.

I any of you disagree, don't yell at me. I do not have a dog in this fight. I am just relaying the information.

Mark

Re: radius skew

john Lucas

>Mark

That's exactly what I found. I like to watch those points as I turn beads. I heard that it was better for planing but I couldn't figure out how. With either skew you only have a shaving about 1/4" or less wide. The difference between the radius and the flat skew are minimal for that type of cut.

Re: radius skew

Peter Teubel

>Absolutly! In addition, you will also want to round the bottom length of the skew for smoother movement across the tool rest. Personally, I don't just soften the corners, I grind the top and bottom to a full half round. In fact, I have a dedicated 4" belt sander for this purpose (and for smoothing out nicked tool rests).

Re: radius skew

pete langevin

>i fired you an e mail pete..

Yes....and no

Peter Teubel

>If one is rolling a bead using the short point, then yes, its more difficult because you can't see the point too well. In fact, there isn't much of a point to begin with. However, I find that rolling a bead with the long point is just as easy with a radius skew as it is with a straight skew.

Re: radius skew

john Lucas

>Pete

As far as I know any skew can be regound to a radiused edge. You can also gring the bottom edge round or at least ease the corners. I think everyone is in agreement with this.

Re: Yes....and no

john Lucas

>Peter

I'll agree on that point. Where I have the problem is when I'm squaring up the end of piece or when going from square to round on a pommel where I want to leave a perfectly flat edge. I have trouble seeing the point and knowing what it's doing. This is especially true when I arc the tool in from the side going toward the middle rather than arcing it from the top down which is the usual way. I find that arcing the skew in from the side or even slightly below center reduces tearout on even the the softest wood. This is because the angle of the cutting edge is approaching the wood at an extreme shearing angle.

Re: radius skew *LINK*

Ken Grunke

>Alan Lacer covers the skew, it's use, and sharpening pretty thoroughly on his website. I think these are new additions to his site, didn't see them last time I looked--


Lacer's website--tutorial handouts

Re: radius skew

Fog Tanner

>I use a slight radius on my skews, from 3/8" to 1". Like everyone else I watched the Raffin tapes to get started. I never put a simitar sweep like Richard's earlier tapes. A couple of years ago I attended a hands on with Hisownself. One of the things he did was resharpend everyones tools to suit him. When he resharpened my skew, it came back with a gentle sweep. His own skew had the same gentle sweep and not the radical simitar look as his earlier tapes. Watching that tool in His hands, reminds us of what mere mortals we really are.

I can use either the straight or radiused, but prefer the slight curve. It is much more forgiving and I have no trouble cutting beads or deep V's. I learned to use the skew with the straight edge before I radiused the edge to see if there was any difference, knowing I could always make it straighten it out if I wanted. I never went back to the original grind, only the bevel angle has changed.

Re: radius skew

Bill Luinetti

>Yes, I do also. I think that it is easier to control. The one that I use most often is 3/4" wide, but I just ordered an Alan Lacer signature version which is 5/8" wide (BO with Craft Supplies).

I guess it all depends how you get started with the skew...and after the Alan Lacer video, I started with the curved skew.

Re: radius skew

Glenn Hodges

>John, I bought a 1 1/4 inch P&N skew ground the ends so it is now a radius skew. I use it as a bowl scraper for the final touch before sanding. I use a detail gouge to roll my beads.

Nashville, Ga

Re: radius skew

RonZ

>I use a mild radius and find it better for planing and bead and coves with the point end down, the curve end making it easier to see the point. I was taught by Dave Regester to take a 3/4" oval skew and cout a radically angled bevel along with being radiused and this allows for making very narrow coves.