Pen Blanks

Re: Pen Blanks

Don Evans

>I've always used a power miter saw.

One thing many people do wrong with this particular saw is they lower the blade ok, but they raise it again BEFORE the blade stops.

This will / can send a piece sailing across the room that touches the still spinning blade.

When sawing, lower the blade into the wood til cut is all the way through, then release the switch while STILL holding the saw down. Do NOT begin to return the blade to the upright position until AFTER the blade is completely stopped. Newer model saws with the blade brake only take 5 or so seconds to stop, whats the rush.

Sounds like the instructor needs some instruction.

Don

Bandsaw here.

Fred in NC

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Re: Pen Blanks

Ron in Drums PA

>When ever I cut small pieces on a power miter saw I use the hose from my shop vacuum as a stop. The small pieces get sucked in the canister. It helps if the canister is empty before starting.

Re: Pen Blanks

Carole in VA

>Band saw or sled on the table saw here. On the table saw I use a hold down when they get short. My SCMS still has the factory issue blade on it and it doesn't really like little stuff (especially with burly or knotty grain) that much, and I get tired of waiting for the blade to stop before raising it after each cut.

Re: Pen Blanks

Wood Spinner

>Two things help and almost never get a kick out. Put a piece of 1/2 in. plywood across the backstop of the miter saw and clamp it in place on both sides. Start the saw and cut. This leaves a back that contacts the blocks full length. I also use a fine tooth blade. I have not had any kick outs since doing this. But just to be sure, as said, stop the blade in the down position.

Good turning and be safe

Bill in Casa Grande, AZ.

Re: Pen Blanks

Jim King-Iquitos,Peru

>I agree an 80 tooth blade and no problem.

Re: Pen Blanks (long)

tek

>I use an auxiliary wooden face on my miter gauge, which extends past the saw blade. The extension is higher than my saw cut so it straddles the blade. I have a sliding table on my Dewalt table saw and clamp the miter gauge in the sliding table. The auxiliary piece, when I make a cut, supports both the pen blank and the waste piece. I would probably make a sled for my saw if it didn�t have a sliding table. I was a carpenter for 30 years and putting fingers that close to a power miter box blade makes me nervous. Of course I did it on occasion, but usually when cutting a very short piece, I could hold the piece against the fence with something other than my body parts. I worked with a lot of guys missing fingers or parts of them. The worst I ever got, fortunately, was stitches from a circular saw mishap When you get sown up from a saw accident they are pulling together body parts the are missing a saw kerf in between them. It�s a little more drastic than a slice from a knife. At least with a knife cut everything is still there. BTW early power miter boxes were known for the blade falling down when it wasn�t expected. The springs that help them up would fatigue and break. I haven�t heard of that happening with the modern ones though.

Re: Pen Blanks

Dick Hines

>I use a small bandsaw. I trim the ends and then cut in half. As long as the pieces are long enough they don't have to be exact cuts. When you mill them they will be exact and you can trim the over hang when they are no the lathe.

Re: Pen Blanks

Robert Cox

>Cross cut sled on the table saw.

Re: Pen Blanks

Terry Quiram

>Jimmy

I use a sled on the table saw. You and Tyler are welcome to visit for some pointers. I live in Roanoke.

Terry

Re: Pen Blanks

EagleS.C.

>Bandsaw with sled.

Tablesaw with sled 7&1/4 thin kerf blade.

Re: Bandsaw here. DITTO!

Paul Porter in Phoenix, AZ

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Pen Blank Sled...

Peter Teubel

>I made this sled for my table saw. Complete with marks for the different pen segment lengths and even a 45 degree fence for making angle cuts for contrasting segments.