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Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

yet more glue/waste block questions

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yet more glue/waste block questions

#1

yet more glue/waste block questions

Andy in Raleigh

>I am have rounded off a few pieces of mahogany from a bunch of old 4x4 (actually 4.25" on each side, so I can actually get a 4" round) beams I have. I am planning to turn some large goblets, small end grain bowls and lidded "boxes" using a faceplate. I read the earlier post about end grain and faceplates and I am planning to go with a small tenon inserted into a glue block.

Most of my other stock is 4/4 and the most likely choice for the block is white oak, because I have a lot of that and it is pretty clear and strong. I also have some soft maple, walnut and purpleheart, but not as much and they are a bit more valuable (at least until I butcher it). I have one other choice - mahogany! At one end of a beam, there is a split and I can easily salvage a few 2" or better thick 4" x 4" blocks from that. If I went with oak, I would either have to only have 1" or laminate.

As far as glue, I have a bunch of epoxy, hardener and thickening powder left over from a couple of boats I built. That would definitely be my first choice for laminating the oak, if I do that, and possibly for attaching the blank as well. I am not in a big hurry and I know that it will hold. I also have white glue, yellow glue and a little CA around. I also have a bunch of craft glue that I use in scroll work that is not suitable as far as I know.

Anyway, my questions are:

1 - Which wood would you use and how thick?

2 - What glue would you use?

I would also appreciate any tips on facing off the block to get it nice and smooth and flat.

Thanks!

-Andy

Re: yet more glue/waste block questions

#2

Re: yet more glue/waste block questions

Mark Kauder. Phenix City, AL

>Having started this thread, I may not be the person to listen too.

Glue - I have decided to use either Titebond or Hot Hide Glue in the future.

Size - the diameter need not be much larger than required for your chuck/faceplate requirements. I make my glue blocks in batches, and generally make them all 4" - 4 1/2" in diameter.

Thickness, I prefer 6/4 or 8/4, but that is for reasons described above. 4/4 will certainly work if you reverse chuck to clean the bottoms.

Which wood - I think that as long as it is stable/dry, you are OK. I prefer wood harder than Soft Maple or Poplar, but that is my preference. My current batch is from Red Oak. I used it, because I have a bunch of it that has some worm holes in it, and it is not suitable for much else, but is otherwise sound.

Trueing Up - mount the block in chuck or on the faceplate, and then turn it flat and true. I like to use a sanding stick to make it finally flat.

Just my opinions - your mileage may vary.

Mark