Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998
McNaughton Questions
Ron in Drums PA
>I've been playing around coring out forms.
I've cored the biggest first then using a pin chuck to return a tenon on the bottom of each form before I core out the next.
I've also cored the smallest first then used cole jaws to true up the bottom and then add a glue block.
Both ways seem to have it's merits and pitfalls.
Would anybody care to share some tips or suggestions on how they core? Thanks!
Re: McNaughton Questions
Gary in Zirconia,NC
>I core the biggest first. Before I core it though, I turn a small tendon on the face of the blank so that the core can be put in a chuck and it is already trued up. I then put a tendon on the bottom of it and it is ready to reverse and make a bowl or another core. If I make another core, it has that same tendon already on it's face to chuck up again.
Re: McNaughton Questions
Ron in Drums PA
>That sounds like a good idea that I'll have to try.
How do you first mount the blank when you rough out the outside?
Re: McNaughton Questions
Darryl Hansen
>I gouge out a small circle in the center of the core to fit my chuck jaws. When I get a core out I reverse the core and use the jaws in expansion mode. Make a tennon on the bottom and reverse the blank. Make another core and reverse in expansion mode. Make another tennon and repeat till I run out of blank.
Re: McNaughton Questions
Gary in Zirconia,NC
>When I rough out the inside, I mount it in a chuck by the tendon I have put on it by mounting it in the chuck from the tendon that I put on it on the "top" of the bowl.
Re: McNaughton Questions
Gary in Zirconia,NC
>Yes, that's the same procedure I use. Sometimes I use the expantion and sometimes I make a tendon.
Re: McNaughton Questions
kenny in indpendence
>I have this system, but have not had time to use it. This string has given me some insight and I thank you for that. It would be helpful if some of you might be able to post some pictures. Thanks
Re: McNaughton Questions
Fred Le Bail
>I also have this system but have had limited luck in getting the coring process completed. I have tried it several times and had one success. The tool causes a lot of catches and at times will even snap the tenon.Using the Standard set, there seems to be quite a bit of sideways movement in the gate.Also what should the optimun speed be. On his DVD Mike Mahoney says slower than he usually turns but doesn't say what that is.
Guess I'll just have to keep plugging away at it.
Re: McNaughton Questions
George Van in WI
>Fred, I seem to use 400rpm a lot for coring speed, on most sizes less than 20� for a start. When I first started using my McNaughton I used slower speeds and had problems grabbing, as the chips were not being ejected, thus jamming and causing a catch, ripping the bowl out of the jaws. On smaller cores I find myself increasing the speed to make the chips eject better.
Make sure your cutter is far enough out of the gate to get the full width of the blade between the posts for support. When I first started I just had the first part of the tip out of the gate and the blade would twist down and to the right.
Re: McNaughton Questions
Ron in Drums PA
>By no means am I an expert.
I did pop the tenon on my first attempt. I found that I had the tool to high on the blank. Once I lowered the tool gate, so the coring tool was at center (or less as the instructions say). I no longer had a problem.
The sideways movement of the gate comes in handy in widening the cut during the process. This helps the chips eject faster. If the chips become jammed in the groove during the cut you will snap the tenon.
When I'm coring on the 1236 I move the speed lever past "low" and hold it there with a spring clamp. I'm guessing it is spinning at about 400 rpms.
This coring system sure is great. Wish I got it sooner.
Re: McNaughton Questions
Joe Fleming
>Ron,
I start on the outside and work in. The reason is that the big bowl is the "money bowl", as Mike Mahoney would say. The big bowl drives what you can charge for the set. If you start on the small one, you may end up wasting an inch or more on the largest one. Better waste the wood on the small end.
After coring the largest blank, the core has no tenon. I then put this core between centers and add a tenon. Then I finsih turn the oustside of it. finally, I core it again.
Repeat.
As for play in the gate, right before you start the cut, twist the gate by hand as far counterclockwise as you can. The gate will move this way once the coring has started anyway. By doing this "pre-twist", the blade will stay on the intended course instead of moving outward.
Joe Fleming - San Diego
Thanks!
Ron in Drums PA
>
