>Ok, I am finally ready to use a skew. I have been putting it off for sometime because of the first few times I tried it I had some massive (read SCARY) catches.
First, I need to know exactly what a skew is used for as I think it is used for finishing work, to lesson the use of sandpaper.
Second, can a skew be used on a straight cylidar, like finishing a rolling pin?
Third, are there any websites with good tutorials on how to hold the skew?
I second the Alan Lacer dvd, it's excellent. I have watched many teach the skew on tape, but none finer and more in depth simplification than Alan. I used to use a gouge for most of my spindle work, now it's about 80% skew after working through his dvd and trying some projects.
>I would love to get a video to show me, but are there any places with pointers on at least a few techniques so I could get started? I especially want to know how to use the skew to smooth a cylinder, assuming it can be done.
>I learned to use the skew from the Ricard Raffin tapes/DVD, "Turning Wood" and "Turning Projects". Ricard is a little fast for some, but suits me OK. Also, Raffins book "Turning Wood" will explain the mechanics that you can't get from watching a tape. Once you understand the why you get a catch and how to avoid it, other than staying away from the lathe, it becomes a matter of practice.
I have turned well over a thousand small pieces using only the skew for all the outside surface. These include cylinders, some with beads, and others with coves. I have even used it on offcenter pieces in my Escoleoun (sp?) chuck just to see if I could. Today, the skew is my main tool for spindle work, picking up a gouge only when forced to. The main thing is practice, practice, practice. I talked to Raffin at a hands-on workshop and he still practices today. Its one of those learning curves that never ends. And no video can replace actual time at the lathe.
If you want some fun practice, get a "light pull" drive. These are friction drive and you can run the lathe up around 3000, which is also fun. When you get a catch, the piece just stops instead of spiralling back out. You can then look at what you did wrong, back out your tool, tighten the tail stock and go on. You can go through a hundred light pulls, have a lot of fun, and learn a lot. The only word of caution, is when you return to something between centers or in a chuck, you can't be as loose and careless, then you will get a catch and it will spiral out - trust me ;-)
>As others said before Alan Lacer video will show you how to round a cylinder with a skew, among many other great tidbits. I bet Bill's Grimbine's Video is as good or most likely better since it shows other techniques as well.
IMO - A video is worth 10,000 words.
Other then that, there may be an instructor near you. Where are you located.
>Here's an article by Alan Lacer (link below). In reference to your question "can a skew be used on a straight cylinder," see the part about the "planing cut."
I'm a very novice turner, but I'm getting better with the skew, largely thanks to Richard Raffan's video. One thing that Raffan emphasizes, which I don't see mentioned in the Lacer article, is to keep the bevel of the skew rubbing to limit the depth of cut. Seems to work for me, but I stand open to correction by those more experienced.
>I think the skew is one of the handiest tools for center work and I understand your nervousness. I still remember the catch I had in grade 8 wordworking that caused the skew to fly out of my hand and into the shop's lumber storage rack and that was about 45 yrs ago!
Before I turn on the lathe I put the skew on the toolrest and lay it on the stock as if I were cutting. I see where the top point is relative to surface and I adjust the height of the toolrest so the top point is reasonably well away from the workpiece surface. This typically means don't let the rest get too low or too far away.
Let the bevel rub on the workpiece (lathe is running now) and then apply the cutting edge into the wood.
The skew, when properly sharpened, is THE tool for smoothing cylinders. As Ron asks, if you let us know where you are located, there may be a member of this forum that lives nearby to help you. I agree that a good video is worth 10,000 words, and one-on-one instruction with a turning mentor is worth quite a few videos !
Look at www.woodturner.org to find tha AAW club nearest you -- if you attend a club meeting, and let people know you are a beginner and looking for help learning to use the skew, I'm sure you'll get offers of assistance.
I use both the older, rectangular-profile straight skews, and oval, or rounded skews with a curved cutting edge. Each has its pros and cons, but adding a little curve, or radius to the edge is very helpful for many cuts -- I recommend it.
One more thing -- practice with a piece held between centers, and not a piece driven by a chuck. There are a number of catches that can cause your hand and the tool to skid off to the side, which could easily send your valuable body parts into the chuck jaws... Spur drive centers are OK, but if you can drive the work between centers with a steb center, an old dead cup center, or or even a hollow center like those used for drilling lampshades, the piece will stop (slip) when you have a bad catch, instead of a more violent result. Once you have some guided practice under your belt, you'll have a hard time remembering what all the fuss was about -- it ain't so bad at all once you get the hang of it.
>Thanks for that link Kent. As soon as I finished reading the article I went into the shop. After I made a slip drive and sharpened the skew, I followed the advice and shaved a nice piece of square 2x2 cedar into a smooth cylinder using only the skew from start to finish. That's a first for me.
The slip drive is a terrific way to learn without major trauma, but I also liked the analysis of why certain patterns develop and how to avoid/correct for them.