Seating a tool in the handle

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>1/2" hole. Rough the steel a bit with 100 grit. Thin CA on the tool and insert. Wipe off excess and let set naturally without using accelerator.

Done

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

Ron in Drums PA

>Same as Mark but I like using epoxy

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

Sam Dean

>I always use epoxy as well. Make sure to set the ferrule at the same time with a little epoxy around the edge to lock everything together. Since the epoxy is thicker than CA, make the hole just a little bigger than 1/2" or you'll get a hydraulic lock and won't be able to seat the shaft all the way.

Thanks,

Sam

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

JamieDonaldson

>If the tool is a P&N the tang is a metric size-check before you drill, and epoxy will make up for some "slop" as the ol' timers say!

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

Tom Mullane

>Basically the same as the others, but I use JT Weld... makes a real solid mating... but epoxy would also work..

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

John Lucas

>MK

I drill the hole 1/16 undersize then heat the tip of the tang to red hot and let it cool until it's a really dull red almost not glowing then drive it in the handle. It smokes like crazy but really locks the tool in place. I do this by placing the tool blade in my vice and driving the handle on with a deadblow hammer. Epoxy works very well also if you don't want to do the heat part.

12mm or 1/2-inch?

Don Thompson - Cutler Ridge, Florida

>In the article by Lyn Mangiameli, published in the June 2004 issue of More Woodworking, he wrote (IIRC) that P&N intended to change the US distribution diameters from 12mm to 1/2-inch.

Perhaps this has been done already?

Re: 12mm or 1/2-inch?

Mk

>Lee Valley had both sizes listed for the same tool. I guess I will have to check it when it comes.

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

Mk

>Ok, the three uses were CA glue, epoxy and JB Weld. Now, another question: if I ever wanted to make a new handle (say the handle I made didn't balance right, or something) how would I release the tool from the above adhesives?

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

Mk

>This is what I have done with most of my other chisels and turning tools. But they were all tapered tangs, none with perfectly round tangs. I didn't know if it would work, but I guess if it didn't then I could use one of the above adhesives.

Re: Don't Think So

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>John,

That's correct with the kind of pointed, square-ground tangs found on files, rasps and carving chisels because you can get just the point that hot. But when the chisel is machined from a rod like turning tools (the P&N's in particular), I don't think you can use the heat method without effecting the temper of the whole tool shaft.

Of course, I could be wrong, but since these are not striking tools, a bit of CA or epoxy will be enough to prevent the tool twisting in the handle hole or falling out.

M

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

MP Wall

>I have seated about 10 of the P&N's and I use ash handles. I bought mine from Aus so they are metric. I drilled the blanks for the fraction closest the metric size. Start the tang in the handle by hand and then rap the butt of the handle on the floor till it seats most of the way in and then rap the butt of the handle with my mallet (irish persuader) to finish seating. I leave a knob on the butt of the handle that I saw off and sand so I don't ruin the butt of the handle.

If you don't like your handle you can split it off or saw the handle off just past the tang.

MP Wall

If you don't care about the wood-

steve antonucci in NW NJ

>cut it out with a band saw and hand chisels.

My experience has been that if you drill deep enough (I use the tailstock and a drill taper), your holes run truer and don't require any glue (wood shrinks around the steel?)

That said, I still use 5 minute epoxy.

Steve

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

John Lucas

>MK

You can usually knock them out quite easily with a deadblow hammer. You can also heat the metal and pull it out. It doesn't have to be very hot so you don't have to worry about damaging the temper on the metal. If your worried about the heat simply clamp a pair of vise grips about an inch or so away from the handle and then heat the metal. The vice grips work like heat sinks to keep the heat away from the important part of the tool.

Re: Don't Think So

John Lucas

>Mark

I've done all my gouges that way and not a single one has come loose or rotated yet. I did worry about that in the beginning. As you said it's easy enough to add a little epoxyor CA. You do have to worry about hydraulic pressure from the glue either pushing the gouge back out or busting the wood as you knock the handle in. I've done a few like this for friends so I drilled a 1/16 hole in the side of the handle to let the glue run out relieving that pressure.

Re: Glue Weep Hole

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>A good idea. Have to remember that.

M

Re: Glue Weep Hole

John Lucas

>Mark

It's something you learn the hardway. Put a blade in a handle with epoxy, seated it and put it on the workbench to dry. Came back down after dinner and it had squirted itself back out so only 1" was in the handle. I heated it up, put on more epoxy and tapped the handle on with my mallet. This time the handle cracked wide open.

I've also had the same thing happen when inserting a turned ring into a groove turned in the wood. Now I drill relief holes if possible. It if isn't possible I use the minimum amount of glue and lots of clamps.

Re: Glue Weep Hole Tool?

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>Knew a guy once who had this little tool made from a screwdriver that had a little "v" nub at the very end. He'd use it in a dowel hole to cut a few groves to allow excess glue to ooze out when the dowel was inserted. Stick it in to the bottom and pull out so the nub cut a groove on the way out. Same principal, I guess.

Re: Seating a tool in the handle

Wood Spinner

>Make a pipe handle. Drill and tap a couple of holes for set screws to tighten in.

If you don't like the feel of the metal use plastic tube to cover the pipe.