Maple Bowl Finishing

Maple Bowl Finishing 2nd Pic

TomW in SouthJersey

>Here's another shot.

Re: Maple Bowl Finishing

JL work

>The grain figure is really nice. You paid how much for it? I haven't used the Formbys in question, so I won't say anything about it. I have used Waterlox original, Tung oil or linseed oil (and a few others) followed by waxes (or not). Sometimes I have just used a carnuba/beeswax mix. Everyone has their own preferences - it just depends on what sort of look you are trying for. Do you want a hard gloss? A softer sheen?

Maple Bowl Finishing

TomW in SouthJersey

>I guess I should have been a little clearer on the look I'm after. I haven't finished any turnings with a higher gloss finish yet. I believe this piece would lood better with the high gloss finish.

Tom

Re: Maple Bowl Finishing

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Did you say $238? If so I've got a whole bunch of prettier wood than that I'll sell you much cheaper.

By all means give a high gloss finish a shot. I generally find my own work appeals to me better with a medium sheen. High gloss is extremely difficult to do right and rarely worth the effort. I sometimes think that it competes with the form and wood negatively, too. You'll never know if you don't try. Plus, you can always change a high gloss to a sheen with some steel wool and wax.

Re: Maple Bowl Finishing

Ed Kelle

>Tom, it looks great. From my limited experience, I found that oil really darkened some ambrosia maple that I turned, I actually used Liberon. Here is a pic. it was much lighter before finishing. I have since read that the way to keep a lighter tone is to use a poly finish. I have not tried this yet, and will be turning another chunk of this in the future. I'd suggest that if you still have some small offcuts, you sand them to the same grit and test out finishes on them first, to see how they effect the coloring before you apply it to your nice pricey bowl. Sorry to hear how you got soaked on it. Good luck and I hope to see pics of it when it is finished

Ed