finishing

Re: finishing

J L

>I like the Wave system (2" or 3" discs) for sanding. They are available through Lee Valley, Highland Hardware and Woodcraft to name a few. I have seen the Sorby system used, and it works also. As for finishing - everyone has their own favorites. Waterlox, Tung oil, BLO, lacquers - you name it, it has been used.

Re: finishing (long)

Bill Canaday

>If you use a drying oil (walnut, sunflower, boiled linseed, tung, etc) underneath that wax, the grain will be more intense and the finish will be more durable. It will also take you at least a day or two longer to complete the work. This is a minimum estimate ... there is no time pressure to complete the process as longer drying times won't hurt and may even help.

I note that the method you are using produces more of a satin finish. This may be what you want. I generally prefer a gloss finish and what follows will point you in that direction. Keep in mind, though, that you can nearly always bring a gloss finish back to a satin sheen by wiping it with 000 or 0000 steel wool or 2400- 3200 MM. Thus you can enjoy the durability and water resistance of the steps below while still having full control over the luster.

Apply the drying oil liberally. The list above is only representative, not all-inclusive. Allow it to soak in for a few minutes (15 - 60) then wipe off the excess that can't soak in and apply agin to those areas that look blotchy (end grains will generally do this ... other areas may also be very absorbent). Repeat this several times until no areas are eager to accept it. Then set it aside to dry for one or more days while you begin the process on additional works of art. After the span of a few days, blow the dust off it, remount it on your lathe and re-sand / burnish until the wood feels like a freshly powdered baby's bottom. If your sandpaper quickly clogs, the oil is not yet dry. Don't try to fight it. Set the piece aside to give it additional drying time. There is also a smoothing technique that involves sanding with the liquid oil used as a lubricant but that won't get around the drying time -- just fill the pores faster.

Then apply whatever top coat suits you -- including additional coats of the oil. Lather, rinse, repeat as needed. Being drying oils they will (eventually) work up to a sheen of their own. I am currently making several bowls using BLO (exterior), walnut oil (interior) and Minwax Tung Oil Finish as the exterior top coat. It contains tung oil and some sort of varnish that allows me to fill in the pores and build a nice gloss. I am still experimenting (just 6-8 months with a lathe in my possession) so one of the bowls got several coats of BLO applied to the outside after it had been finish turned but before turning the inside. I was pleased to note that the BLO had penetrated all the way through the wood to a depth of about 1/4" - 3/8" deep. I imagine that this bowl will have some translucency when I get done.

At the moment, I have 5 bowls approaching completion that I have finished this way. I am trying to completely fill the pores on some ash and that is taking a LOT of coats ... but they are going to be stunning when I get done. Some areas are already filled in and looking just as I had hoped. That gives me a lot of encouragement to keep going. Ash gives LOTS of contrast between the heartwood and the sap wood. The two spalted & curly figured box elder bowls (turned sideways, cut to include the very tiny pith and generous red sap) are already 'there' and I am just bringing them to a deep shine at this point.

My next challenge is to somehow get them photographed to submit for jurying. I am hoping to exhibit this summer and deadlines for this are biting me in the ankles!