First time here? Do you sell to woodworkers? Need help? Ask Woody!
Home Articles Forums Gallery Marketplace Videos
If you sell to woodworkers, your customers are already here

WoodCentral Forums

Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

pen or wine stopper finish

Posts

pen or wine stopper finish

#1

pen or wine stopper finish

John in VT

>Long story short. My son is getting married at a wine vineyard. I was asked to make a 150 stoppers. I've only made a few & used friction polish or the Hut stick for a finish. I read somewhere that there is something better that will last longer but can't find the posting again. I want to be able to finish on the lathe. What do you use as a wax over friction polish?

I've learned so much from all of you that I never had to ask any questions until now. Thanks for sharing.

John

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

#2

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

EagleS.C.

>CaA would last the logest but by no means the easiest to apply.

On the bright side,after 150 you'll have the technique down.

I like Mylands 3 step finish.

Cellulose sanding sealer, high build polish, Carnauba wax.

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

#3

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

MikeinCapeMay

>John

I make a lot of stoppers, I use watco oil and then 3 step Beall system.

I oil them on the lathe, remove and attach to the cone and set aside to dry. Once I have a few dozen that are oiled and dry I break out the buffs.

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

#4

PSI Lacquer Sealer

Dominic Greco at home in Richboro, PA

>John,

I recently made several dozen stoppers using Penn States Industries Gloss Lacquer Sealer. Mylands makes a similar product. It's a lacquer based (not shellac based) grain sealer/friction polish that is applied to the piece while it's right on the lathe.

I usually wipe some on, let it soak in, then apply a couple more coats the same way you apply Mylands Friction Polish. Then I let it sit for a while and dry. Usually, I move to my Midi lathe and start working on another stopper on that one while I wait.

I found that the waiting period allows the lacquer to harden and resist buffing better. After it dries, I will gently buff with Micro Mesh, then buff using White Diamond. I then give it a coat of Renaissance Wax and buff it to a high sheen.

This process takes about the same time as Shellac based friction polish. But from my experience it is a much more durable finish. And it works well for pens too!

The nice thing about the lacquer is that it is alcohol and water resistant (BTW, Carnuaba is not). Any alcohol/wine that gets on the cork may leave spots. Not to mention if someone refrigerates the wine and condensation forms!

See ya around,

Dominic

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

#5

Good grief ! -

Fred in NC

>How long do you think it will take you to turn 150 of them?

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

#6

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

Joel Hunnicutt

>with that many to do, how about dipping them in lacquer. I've never actually done that, but have heard some good reports. Check Russ's finishing article, I think he talks about dipping in finish.

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

#7

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

Doug Leite

>John,

In the last month, I had to turn 500 of them, the last 120 last week. I found that the friction polish is not durable enough,as previously stated, so after that application has dried for a few hours, I spray on a coat of Deft lacquer. I usually get a little dust in the Deft, so I buff them lightly the next day with white diamond only, then install the corks.

How long to turn them,that depends on the shape and your prowess on the lathe. I turn between 6-10 an hour including the sanding and friction polish. The # of hours that I can stand at that Mini lathe varies as my feet and legs get sore from not walking or moving around too much.

Aloha

Doug Leite

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

#8

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

EagleS.C.

>YOu mean you stand when you turn?

Re: pen or wine stopper finish

#9

Thanks for the help!!

John in VT

>