glue lines

Re: glue lines

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Not sure whether you are talking about the lines that you can see, or the ones you can feel (i.e. glue creep).

In either case, I think that the better/thinner the joint, the less you will have to deal with either. To do that, you need a good smooth glue surface on all segment sides - you can accomplish that on the sides with a high quality cross-cut blade on the TS, or buy finishing the sides with a sander after cutting by other methods (CMS, BS, etc). On the top and bottom surfaces, you need to sand. 80-100 grit is good enough.

It took me a while for other segmented turners, like Russ, to convience me, but to get a really good glue you have to clamp in some manner. You can do segmented turning with rubbed glue joints, but they will be thicker joints than if you can clamp at least a little.

Glue joints using most yellow glues will be available for turning in an hour or two. However, I would wait at least a day or two before finish sanding and applying a finish. Some people say you should wait 3 months, but that has not been my experience.

I used Hot Hide Glue for a couple of years - it does not show glue creap, but it set too fast for a decent clamped joint - especially if you are clamping 24-36 segments all at one time into a ring. So I stopped using it last summer.

Mark

Re: glue lines

Dennis Vallianos

>The things that spring to mind:

Don't use woods with widely different expansion characteristics next to eachother. Use wood that is dry & acclimated to your environment - I like to let strips sit for a day or so before final sizing & cutting into segments. Get as perfect a fit as possible between segments & between rings. Some also like to let the bowls sit for a few weeks before final turning.

Dennis