Ellsworth sharpening dimensions help plz.

Re: Ellsworth sharpening dimensions help plz. *LINK*

Tony Reynolds somewhere near Newark, OH

>Mike here's a link so you can print them out.

Tony


Ellsworth jig

Re: Ellsworth sharpening dimensions help plz.

Harvey Meyer in Atlanta

>Pivot point should be 4" below centerline of wheel and 7" from the face of the wheel.

Cheers,

Harvey

Re: Ellsworth sharpening dimensions help plz.

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Ah..sweet! Thank you. 7" is the magic number.

While we're on the Ellsworth

Travis Stinson

>dimensions,how many of you stick to the recommended 2" from the point to the jig? I have 6" wheels, and find that I can keep the angles better with around 1.5" extension.

Re: JIG??

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>Mike,

What grinder jig are you using? The measurments are different if you're using a Wolverine setup.

MM

Re: JIG??

Tony Reynolds somewhere near Newark, OH

>That's what I use, Ellsworth & Wolverine. Not sure what the measurement ended up being as I used magic marker on the bevel to set the distance.

Tony

Re: S'posed To Be . . .

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>When the Wolverine slider is used with the Ellsworth block & stick Holder:

1. The pivot point (NOT the tubing) in the Wolverine slider should be 5-1/8" below the centerpoint of the grinder's shaft; and

2. The inside end of the basket should be 7-1/8" from the outside surface of the wheel (Not measured diagonally); and

3. The tool should project 2-1/8" from the holder.

Above taken from David's own instruction sheet.

Note 1: These numbers do NOT apply for the Wolvering Vari-grind holder.

Note 2: As far as I know, it makes no difference whether you're running 6" or 8" wheels.

Re: JIG??

Mike Schwing from Md.

>Made my own from David's instruction sheet. I use his store bought aluminum "holder" and my own shop built jig that holds and pivots it at the correct angles. I emailed him and he replied that as the grinder wheel dimension shrinks the bevel angle gets too blunt and needs to be corrected.

Re: S'posed To Be . . .

John Carr

>... and for the Wolverine Vari-Grind the numbers are ???

Re: S'posed To Be . . .

Garrett in Victoria

>This was posted by Joe Fleming on 23 Mar 03:

"Step 1: Put the gouge in the varigrind jig per the instructions.

Step 2: Temporarily set the angle in the middle of the setting range.

Step 3: Turn the tool as if grinding the side bevel (wings) of the gouge. Adjust the sliding bar in or out until the angle matches the angle on the wing of the tool. What is this angle? I'm not sure how to describe it in measured degrees, so I'll try a verbal one. When you grind on the wing, if the wheel is up-and-down

with respect to the flute, you will probably be grinding the wing too thin. When looking at the end of the gouge, the side bevel should taper out (away from the flute). From the vertical, this angle may be about 20 degrees out from top to bottom (just a guess - again, nothing is too magical here). Lock the sliding bar at this point.

Step 4: Loosen the varigrind and find the position where the node angle will grind to about 45/50 degrees. Lock the varigrind position.

Step 5: When you changed the varigrind position in Step 4, the sliding bar adjustment was screwed up just a bit. Go back and reset the side angle by loosening the sliding bar and resetting. Tighten the bar. This adjustment will be very small.

Step 6: Repeat Step 4 and Step 5 as necessary. The iterations will zero in on the angles very quickly. For me, I usually only have to do the slider twice and the nose angle twice. Again, there is nothing magical about the angles. 48.5 degrees will not ruin that beautiful piece of maple burl.

Side note #1: When your grinding wheel wears down, the angles will gradually drift. You may want to go back through this setup after taking off 3/8 " to 1/2" of diameter.

Side note #2: This exact same procedure works for spindle gouges. 45 degrees is not a bad starting angle for the nose on those either.

Joe Fleming - San Diego"

Cheers, Garrett

Re: Don't have

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In Jersey

>a clue, John, but I can give you some measurements.

David's holder is set at a constant 45* between the jig's leg and the tool shaft.

With the tool set at 2-1/8" protrusion from the Ellsworth holder block, the distance from the point of the jig to the cutting edge of the tool's flute is almost exactly 9-3/4"

Since my Ellsworth jig and Vari-grind are almost exactly the same length, I would suspect that setting the Vari-grind at a 45, measured through the center of its tapered leg, with the tool set to measure the 9-3/4" from the pivot point might get you pretty close as long as your other measurements (the 5-1/8 down and 7-1/8 out) are set up right.

Hope this helps!

|;-}}

Re: While we're on the Ellsworth

Jorge Castaneda ~ Downeast Maine

>travis,

I use the Ellsworth jig and 1.75" protusion on a 6" grinder, the 2" makes a very long grind

Re: S'posed To Be . . .

John Carr

>Thanks for the help.