First time here? Did you find what you were looking for?
Support WoodCentral when buying things you need

WoodCentral Forums

Knowledge You Can Build On — Est. 1998

Another OT: Lye/glue

Posts

Another OT: Lye/glue

#1

Another OT: Lye/glue

BubbaBob

>I'm tired of buying molds for the soap I make and am planning to make my own...make them MY size, get them when I want them, don't have to wait on net order delivery, etc.

That said, I have two issues I need to know how to deal with:

1. Should I use wood? I have questions about product release and affect on the wood with long term use. Other suggestions?

2. Whatever I use, what glue would be impervious to lye? I'm thinking Titebond II or III but am not sure. Input?

TIA

BubbaBob

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

#2

Hey Bubba!

Fred in NC

>What shape are the soap bars? Are they square, rounded, etc.? What kind of molds are you using right now?

I would think that wood molds need some kind of release agent, paraffin for example. Also heard that baltic birch is often used for wood molds. As for glue, epoxy would be worth a try, but not the 5 minute kind.

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

#3

Most are 4 oz. rectangles...

BubbaBob

>...I am presently using the short boxes soda and beer is delivered to stores in, and pouring them 2 1/2" deep in soap to harden, then cutting into 3/4x3 slices. There are a couple of problems...

Since the edges aren't straight there is waste when I trim the edge of the block.

One use mold because of getting weak and wobbly. They are free so there is no cost issue, but I am getting tired of digging through store trash to come up with 30-40 a week.

Must be lined with wax paper or cut plastic trash bags so they don't leak. I want to cut out waste of liner.

I want to make several molds 2 1/2 inches deep, 15 inches long (60 4 oz bars, no waste), and 9 inches wide, leakproof, that will release the soap after saponification. I thought I could make wood release by sanding smooth and spraying lightly with veggie oil.

Any other ideas?

BubbaBob

BubbaBob

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

#4

Re: Most are 4 oz. rectangles...

Fred in NC

>Bubba, birch plywood, sanded smooth should work. Seal with shellac, and spray with epoxy paint.

I think epoxy will resist the lye very well.

One idea would be to hinge the sides, so when it gets solid, you can drop the sides, and there you have a cake of soap ready to cut up.

I was thinking of paraffin, which is the sealing wax sold in the grocery store in the canning section, as a coating so the soap will not stick. You know, polyethylene is the best material for this, and paraffin is a cousin of poly. Mineral oil, and even cooking spray might work.

If you make the mold the right size, you can lay a piece of wax paper in the bottom with no waste. Clear plastic is probably cheaper, IF you can manage to juggle it in one piece .... This will make it easier to cut the pieces.

Hope this will give you a starting point. And maybe you will make such good molds that you can sell them to others...

Please let me know if it works. I would love to collect my royalty (a couple bars of soap) one of these days !!!! Remember, I can find the way to your place... All I have to do is go to the top of the mountain, and follow the smell of that frying oil you use for diesel.....

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

#5

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

Robert Cox

>Plexiglass.

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

#6

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

Doug Trembath

>Bubba, you might have some luck with polyethylene sheet goods. High density PE is easy to machine, and is chemically resistant to lots of stuff. I worked in a sodium hydroxide plant in Freeport, Texas once and it was prevalent on our machinery. I saw no reaction to it there. Maybe the idea someone already put out there about hinging the sides would work, too.

Nothing sticks to this stuff, as far as I've ever seen, 'cause it's so slick. You can find it in many different forms, as in sheet goods, rounds, bars, and many others.

I've used it for many applications. It's available at any plastics company, probably Atlanta or Augusta. Also over the internet.

HTH,

Doug Trembath

Studio in the Woods

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

#7

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

Mark Kauder, Phenix City, AL

>Bubba,

I have no real knowledge on the subject - but when has that ever stopped me.

What about painting your wooden molds with that rubber stuff you can get at the big box stores for coating tool handles? It can be thinned,

Mark

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

#8

Thanks folks...

BubbaBob

>...I think I'm going to use a combination of 2-3 of the ideas y'all gave me...it sure will make soap making a lot easier and cause less waste.

Now I just gotta get to work...8000 bars to make before craft show season starts mid-March...at 4 oz each that's...oh heck...2000 lbs...better hurry up and get started...lots of pig fat to render...anybody want LOTS of cracklin's?

BubbaBob

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

#9

Re: Thanks folks...

Don Henthorn Smithville, Texas

>Oh, Yum. I just love cracklings. Remember when we used to keep a slab nailed to the barn under an overhang. Just break off a chunk as you walk by, tear it in half and give half to the dog and half for yourself. Those were the days.

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

#10

Re: Thanks folks...

Fred in NC

>Well, Bubba, can you share your final design of the soap mold?

Re: Another OT: Lye/glue

#11

Sure...

BubbaBob

>bars are 2x3x1 so I'll take a 1x12 and cut it into 24 inch pieces (36 bars), with 1x2x24 for the sides and 1x2x14 for the ends, line the bottom and sides with thin plexiglas glued with 20 min epoxy. A full mold will make 3 dozen bars.

BubbaBob